Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i'm very seriously thinking of trading in my 1986 Ford Sierra Turbo on a R32 GTS-t that i've found sitting in a yard here in Brisbane.

Now, i was just wondering what sort of things i should look out for with these cars? what are the common problems i should look out for before buying it, etc etc?

I know its had a minor front end hit at some stage (bonnet and grille have been replaced with original GTR items, front bar was replaced, radiator support has been repaired and front guards were straightened) but apart from that i can't see any accident damage etc.

Its only got simple mods from what i can see (BOV, K&N pod filter, 'drift' style steering wheel, clutch feels heavier than normal, harder springs)

its got 154,000km (appear to be original... non wound-back)

other than that a very straight, and clean example... so, what should i look for, as i've never owned a skyline before

Thanks in advance

Jason

Get it looked over by a workshop before buying.

I know it is a long drive from Brissy, but I recommend taking it to Gavin Woods Autotech down here on the Gold Coast as he is a Nissan specialist. He does a full inspection (goes over the car with a fine tooth comb) and will tell you of any exisiting problems and ones that are about to happen, i.e like engine breathing, cooling system rusty, turbo shaft play etc etc.

They are all things that would breeze through a roadworthy but would cost you shit loads 3-4 months down the track.

My SAU $0.02

for general first inspection, just check out under wheel wells, as mentioned. asked what is been repaired, look for rust etc around those areas.. look under carpet etc in boot, look under the car, have a check if wheels are the same distance from front bar , side skirts(if not, can show damage of contact with kerbs etc).. test drive etc have a look around gaskets for leaks before and after test drive...

if then nothing puts you off, take it to a trusted mechanic for a details report..

Look at the fron wheels and see if they both are the same distance fron the bottom edge of the guards.

you may find ont og them has been pushed back half an inch. this can mean big problems, as your tyres will scrub when turning and you wont be able to get a correct wheel alignment.

best bet is to get it up on a hoist and have a good look under to see if its all straight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...