Jump to content
SAU Community

Thermo Fans Conversion; Temperature Range?

Faawks

By Faawks,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Faawks Contributor

Faawks

Posted
Posted

Just as the title says, I'm about to do a thermo fan conversion on my R33 as my fan it about to break.

I want to avoid using those adjustable temp switches.

What temperature range should I aim for with the temperature switch?

It's an rb25det running at 12psi.

Also, where would the best place be for the position of the switch?

Cheers.

Faawks Contributor

Faawks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys.

It's there a way to stop the clutch fans from breaking every 6 months or so?

My mate put a new one in his car and it's already got 2 large cracks in it after a little over a month.

Maybe another brand?

I admit that both mine and his cars get thrashed, but that's pretty much what we own them for...

jay-rod Proficient

jay-rod

Posted
Posted

I would say possibly engine mounts crapped causing the engine to move and the fan is hitting.

That or its getting to hot.

If you buy a geniune one it will last another 15 years or so.

Second hand....thats a gamble really.

Dont by gtech......

Faawks Contributor

Faawks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't think it's hitting, mine has 2 cracks between every blade, I'm just getting in early.

My mates actually flew apart while he was drifting, made a complete mess of everything.

His new one already has 2 large cracks but I don't know if it's genuine or not.

Stay away from gtech, check.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

While I agree/understand the advantages and disadvantages of thermo fans a lot of drifters do use them, myself included. I have never seen a stock fan break but I don't like the idea of using a stock one with cracks and continuously revving it over 5000rpm. I know that I could buy another but I just like the advantage of thermo fans, it really comes into it's own when you have a nice setup with twin fans and a cross flow radiator.

With drifting (depending on the track) you can sit in a staging area for maybe 2-3 minutes at a time. After flogging the shit out of your car the twin fans really cool it down well. Not saying a stock fan couldn't but thermo fans DO work. I have only ever seen ONE(!) Drift car with a JZ engine running a stock fan, and I'd say over 50% of RB's run thermo fans as well.

These are just my experiences so take it with a grain of salt, but for people who say they don't work/are crap etc then they are incorrect

jay-rod Proficient

jay-rod

Posted
Posted (edited)

Never said they dont work, you need to go high end fans/brand to get the most out of them
Then u need to take in to account the power draw.
And if it actually is going to hinder airflow at higher speeds ( ie bad shroud)

He should be getting a bigger 40+ mm radiator instead if he hasnt already.
I track my car with stock fan and 50mm radiator and idles fine after a good heavy 4-5 laps

Edited by jay-rod
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I gave up on the thermo I ran in my GTS4 (admittedly without any shroud). Could not keep the engine cool - the slightest incline (at highway speed) caused the thermo to switch on. After I put the standard fan back on, have had absolutely no problem with temperature control.

Figured the couple of kW I gain running the thermo wasn't worth the cost of an engine rebuild.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Jared, I don't think you understand how a thermo fan is designed to work. You will gain a few kW if you set the thermo up the way it was intended, ie to only be working when the engine temperature gets too high.

Alternator only works harder if the thermo fan is on. The majority of the time the thermo isn't on. Only comes on when the engine temp reaches a pre-set thermostatted temperature. Therefore I gain a couple of kW because the engine doesn't need to drive the clutch style (factory) fan.

White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Which is exactly how the viscous hub works. It only locks up when the viscous fluid is hot. Once locked and after the airflow across the hub has cooled the fluid, it disengages and freewheels again. The effect of the 'drag' on the motor, when the hub is freewheeling, would be negligible at best

  • Like 1
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

If your changing to thermo fans to gain horsepower, your a long way from being on the right track

If your stock setup works then leave it alone. If you are doing a thermo fan conversion for a practical reason then go for that. I really don't understand people who go on about the horsepower gains from running thermo fans.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...