Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I priced up some BC Golds for $1495NZD, plus $500NZD for the certification to make them legal, when I found some Jamex springs for $299NZD delivered that will give me a 40mm drop.

The seller (Jamex NZ) says there are no problems with using these as they are legal (no cert needed, direct replacement etc) and are fine with standard shocks - even saying they have never had issues with any of their springs being used on standard height shocks.

I understand the attraction of coilvers, but I don't think I NEED that kind of adjustability. I just don't wanna wreck my ride or injure anyone by using lowering springs alone.

Are they really that bad?

P.S. At $400+ a corner to replace only the shocks(KYB) it is worth going to coilovers, but only if I need to replace them.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.
I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.
If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

What is involved in the Certification for Coilovers? Is this for some kind of external/independant testing?

I'm curious, as the main stumbling block to engineering BC coilovers in NSW (Australia) is the absence of material data & testing info from the parent manufacturer.

If I had this kind of information; I could provide it to an engineer, and he'd be happy to sign them off.

Getting a cert is easy (all my mods are certed/legal) but it costs around $550 so you tend to do it once for all the mods.

Over here the cert process is remarkably sensible.It is run by the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association (not a government body) . Certifiers have a lot of discretion and although there is a guide manual which mandates some things much is left up to their experience and knowledge. For example they will pass Cusco camber arms but not some of the dodgy cheapo versions although there is not a list of approved arms as such.

OEM shocks can be had for significantly less than $400 per corner!

Think amayama.com or similar.

I can possibly get information for you as someone just purchased a swag of OEM suspension components (including all 4 shocks) and the total was just over $700 delivered.

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Checked out amayama.com, and at $196USD per corner I'm looking at $922NZD plus shipping and 15% GST - call it an even $1200 plus springs and coilovers become a real possibility :whistling:

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

I got Jamex lowered springs for my ARX and no problem with it. I bought it from Auckland.

Did you get them from the listing on TradeMe?

Let me find out for you;there is a cheaper way.

Don't rush, I don't need shocks. I just wanna lower my car and will use lowering springs unless they ruin my shock, at which stage I'll either replace or go coilovers.

The only way they will damage your shock is if you go too low, the actual shock will top out and crap around the top. I have seen this happen to an old set that I used 40mm lowered springs then cut 2 coils off, this was done for shits and giggles on an old cortina that we used as a paddock/dirt racer and we had it in that car for about a year and a half.

I lowered my 180 on Tein lowering springs and the shocks were fine for a couple of years. I finally replaced them with Bilstein coilovers for track work. I actually preferred the ride comfort on the road with just the lowering springs.

- Lance

Different car but still relevant, I had lowered King Springs with standard shocks on my R34 GTT for about a year and the ride quality was ... shocking (pardon the pun). Very crashy. The shocks also started leaking before long as they operated outside the designated area with the lowered springs. So in short, if you're going lower springs, get shorter shocks to match, to maintain ride quality.

I ended up going BC BR's with custom (softer) spring rates and difference with night and day, so much better than the OEM+King combo. I priced up a set of aftermarket shocks only, to go with the Kings, and they weren't much cheaper than the BC's...

Just my $0.02

  • Like 1

Keep the OEM shocks and get Lucas springs and you will be fine.

Ask a professional steering and suspension shop the part number, buy & install them your self and then take it back and get it aligned properly.

About $550 all up. $210 F/R pairs each and $85 for an alignment.

Ride remains almost the same (slightly stiffer) ride height less. Win/Win

Edited by Sinista32

No one has mentioned that if you're getting stiffer springs, the shocks aren't designed for them. You'll notice when going over a bump or a ditch it will be firmer on the compression but spring back quicker when the spring is released from its downward stroke. The standard shocks aren't designed to have that much force pushing on them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
×
×
  • Create New...