Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

New to the forum so ill introduce myself, Im Nick, and i reside in Victoria, just recently bought a R32 GTR that i will go pick up in a few days.

Ive previously owned a N14SSS, 95 200sx, R32 GTS 25de, & a GTiR. My ultimate dream and goal was to own a GTR as a weekender and Long term car, especially after regretting selling my previous R32.

I went out and was after something with less than 100,xxx, unmolested as possible and found a nice one.. and at a pretty good price for what theyre worth now.

Heres the current Specs and as ive purchased it.

1992 R32 GTR

80xxx

Full HKS Exhaust (5' tip WAAAAAY to big)
Mines ecu
Turbo smart boost tap (ehhh)
HKS filters
Front adjustable caster rods
Tinted windows (not legal)
Te37 wheels with new tyres (dont like TE37s)
Car tuned on 13psi making 241kw at wheels

15g30ip.jpg

6xyzie.jpg

c23d2.jpg

2isz4ih.jpg

First thing, is i have already sold the wheels prior to even receiving the car, as far as plans go im trying to keep this car as Pure as possible.

Im not a fan of overly modified and shiny cars with shiny engine bays. I appreciate a car thats lightly modified, still looks reasonably factory and drives very comfortably.

The R32 GTR is to much of a iconic car to kill its spirit.

Plans?

- Interior completely factory... no extra gauges etc in sight.

- Factory R32 GTR wheels

- Factory Bodykit

- Engine rebuild to original factory specs, no forgies etc.

- Stock airbox's

- Highflowed standard turbos ( -5)

- Ethanol System

- Aftermarket Oil pump + Sump Baffles

- Poncams

- Ported standard manifolds

- After Market Dump pipe

- EBC

More or less a very factory CLEAN engine bay.

Power goal?

Id be more than happy with anywhere between low boost 230-250kw and max at 300-340ishKW on full boost.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446084-r32-gtr-purest-build/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

Not a great deal happening with the GTR, so far only managed to chase some awesome GTR stockies, and taken most off the plastidip off the front lip. Also removed my climate control unit to find mangled wiring, If anyone happens to have a diagram would be awesome as 3 plugs plugs have like 31 wires but the loom has only like 20! FML lol any help is appreciated.

Chucking some BMW horns on as these ones a SHIT! lol

Next step in the coming months is N1 turbos or -7 turbos!

MINT! Love the stock Originale look.

zwmhwy.jpg

wl4xle.jpg

if your going to all the hassle of building the engine, why not atleast do forged pistons with standard rods and billet pump gears etc for piece of mind?

just my 2c

shes looking real good mate keep the pics coming

Hey Guys,

Not a great deal happening with the GTR, so far only managed to chase some awesome GTR stockies, and taken most off the plastidip off the front lip. Also removed my climate control unit to find mangled wiring, If anyone happens to have a diagram would be awesome as 3 plugs plugs have like 31 wires but the loom has only like 20! FML lol any help is appreciated.

Chucking some BMW horns on as these ones a SHIT! lol

Next step in the coming months is N1 turbos or -7 turbos!

MINT! Love the stock Originale look.

Do you have a copy of the workshop manual? The A/C wiring diagram is in the back of that.

if your going to all the hassle of building the engine, why not atleast do forged pistons with standard rods and billet pump gears etc for piece of mind?

just my 2c

shes looking real good mate keep the pics coming

Do stock pistons & rings. No need for the heartache of steel rings and their poor sealing. Or go ACL if you can find them which are atleast ductile iron.

love a nice white clean 32

Thank you :) me too!

Super nice. Need moar of these kind of restorations, something about ripping everything out and replacing with aftermarket doesnt appeal to me. Probably getting old

Yeh i totally agree! I can deal with tastefully modded with premium brands (Nismo, Tomei, HKS) but i dont like the complete molestation lol each to their own i guess!

Awesome car Nick.

Will be looking forward to your restoration :)

Thanks! Appreciate it :)

Do you have a copy of the workshop manual? The A/C wiring diagram is in the back of that.

Yeh i got it? Just isnt quite straight forward i cant read it hahaha i need something like a headunit wiring diagram, im a electrical newb.

Do stock pistons & rings. No need for the heartache of steel rings and their poor sealing. Or go ACL if you can find them which are atleast ductile iron.

Yeh i was thinking of that route, maybe just aftermarket rods! Thats about it. I mean can you really melt a factory piston that easily?

if your going to all the hassle of building the engine, why not atleast do forged pistons with standard rods and billet pump gears etc for piece of mind?

just my 2c

shes looking real good mate keep the pics coming

Yeh thats definately on the to do list. Aftermarket pump without a doubt! But as far a spistons go, may opt for standards and just put in thicker rods! But yeh ill defs take all that into consideration cos that would suck if i went through all that and it blew up lol

Cheers!

Nice looking car Nick. They do look great in nice clean white.

Each to their own but I'd be doing forgies waaaaaay before rods. If you're not chasing big power (which if you're going -7's you're obviously not) then forgies aren't mandatory but for the extra few hundred dollars, why wouldn't you?? You're better off over building than under doing it.

Picked up these bad boys during the week, wasnt even looking for turbos yet but they popped up at a good price! $700 Delivered. R33 N1 Turbos with about 30xxxkm, they look pretty new!

AWESOME! MADDD should receive em sometime next week

foj89k.jpg

Edited by Cateans05
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Got the N1s with the N1 actuators all ready to go!

Just rebuilt them today, no wheels or shafts, but all bearings and seals!

Next up just need a braided line kit and some stud then im good to go!

Cant wait! Havent driven it for 3 weeks!

2mrz0pf.jpg

29vgpco.jpg

2qdtowj.jpg

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...