Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pressure Sensor Engine Protection

nick_7g

By nick_7g,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

nick_7g Proficient

nick_7g

Posted
Posted

Was thinking of installing the Haltech oil pressure sensor in order to take advantage of the Platinum Pro's engine protection feature.

Wanted to see if anyone had experience with the protection, how effective it was and get a sense of if it is a reasonable compromise vs installing a high flow pump and extended sump. $400-500 for a sensor and protection setup versus $3500 for the sump and pump.

Car is a daily, and I just want peace of mind to be able to track it occasionally. I'm not fussed if a hot lap is cut short by protection if it saves the engine. Already have a wideband sensor and lean out protection.

My 34 GTR is running stock turbos at 14psi on e85, but I'm thinking of going to -9s. I've already got an oil cooler, injectors, pump and there hasn't been any head work done at all (no cams, gears, springs, retainers etc) if that makes a difference.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

The only protection against lack of oil pressure is cutting ignition altogether, ie switching the engine off. Even then it is too late most of the time, especially with an RB26. This is not something you want happening on the track with someone up your arse.

Personally I think logging the pressure is more important, which the Haltech can do, you will find the pressure changes constantly but pressure should never drop too low. If it does you obviously need to sort out your sump baffling etc.

  • Like 1
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah I agree that your better off lunching an engine then being involved in a major crash and writing the car off.

Have you considered an Accusump? I think these automaticly output oil when your oil pump fails and indicate that this has happened. I'm not 100% sure but think this was one of the features with these

Would be a better solution IMO. Give you a chance to pull off the road and shut the engine down, admitedly not alot of time but still better than nothing

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yeah I agree that your better off lunching an engine then being involved in a major crash and writing the car off.

Have you considered an Accusump? I think these automaticly output oil when your oil pump fails and indicate that this has happened. I'm not 100% sure but think this was one of the features with these

Would be a better solution IMO. Give you a chance to pull off the road and shut the engine down, admitedly not alot of time but still better than nothing

I noticed the other day, the M3 BMW runs a similar thing standard, just a small one, perhaps 100ml or so strapped to the side of the block with a hose running up to the head.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Yeah I agree that your better off lunching an engine then being involved in a major crash and writing the car off.

Have you considered an Accusump? I think these automaticly output oil when your oil pump fails and indicate that this has happened. I'm not 100% sure but think this was one of the features with these

Would be a better solution IMO. Give you a chance to pull off the road and shut the engine down, admitedly not alot of time but still better than nothing

I have been looking into these too as i have oil pressure issues under breaking and have probably already hurt the bottom end as i just ignored the warning and have done about 120 laps with it beeping at me under brakes :unsure:

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah I think the Accusump are a great thing, I was looking at doing a pre-lube system in mine with an electric oil pump and then found the Accusump and thought that was a better thing. But the price scared me off a bit lol. I don't have any issues driving mine around the street though so not a big concern lol

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Yeah I think the Accusump are a great thing, I was looking at doing a pre-lube system in mine with an electric oil pump and then found the Accusump and thought that was a better thing. But the price scared me off a bit lol. I don't have any issues driving mine around the street though so not a big concern lol

I only developed a problem since doing more track work and actually having a set of pads that work lol

I would say the damage is likely done on this engine and IF it kills itself i will invest in a better system for the next engine... In saying that i have spoken to a few that have had this issue now and it seems to be a tricky one to fix with a wet sump setup :(

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

In theory the Accusump works great, because it can compensate for intermittent oil pressure drops, but it all depends on the size you get and the length of time it has to take over from the oil pump

:3some:

nick_7g Proficient

nick_7g

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only protection against lack of oil pressure is cutting ignition altogether, ie switching the engine off. Even then it is too late most of the time, especially with an RB26. This is not something you want happening on the track with someone up your arse.

Personally I think logging the pressure is more important, which the Haltech can do, you will find the pressure changes constantly but pressure should never drop too low. If it does you obviously need to sort out your sump baffling etc.

Engine protection is generally programmed to cur revs to a certain level (3k), which I guess would still result in a big on-track slowdown.

But do you think the protection wouldn't kick in fast enough to save the bottom end?

JustinP Mentor

JustinP

Posted
Posted

Yep, the E9x M3's run two sumps and two oil pumps!

I noticed the other day, the M3 BMW runs a similar thing standard, just a small one, perhaps 100ml or so strapped to the side of the block with a hose running up to the head.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

A well setup oil system is better then having the ECU cut power mid corner :(

Even if you by yourself on the track, having the car lose all power mid corner will upset the car and potentially cause you to spin out and run the risk of hitting something or someone hit you, as mentioned a motor is cheaper then the car

If you plan on serious track work fit an enlarged baffled sump and then overfill it with all the usual oiling mods

For a street car just fill it to the bump in the dipstick

  • Like 1
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

i run an accusump and its faultless.

I also run an oil pressure switch on the oil pump as well as an oil pressure sender further down the line, both provide info to the Link g4+ ecu and if it senses the oil pressure switch has been triggered but oil pressure is still up (worst case oil pump failure, accusump discharging) then it engages engine protection and shuts it down. along with a big red light.

Not bad protection for my 20 dollar bottom end ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...