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If threads were bottomed out then replace the studs as they will be stuffed and run 2 washers, trust me I've learnt the hard way due to duncan and foster being so dim witted they made the same mistake multiple times

5 attempts to build a 26/30 which never made it off the driveway and my car now has a stock r33 26 in it

currently paying someone with a brain to do it properly so that I can sell it off in pieces

  • 1 month later...

After some SAU searching, looks like I have the same issue on a completely stock RB25 with 23psi going through the motor.

Was at Wakefield yesterday and after the 4th session noticed my overflow was spewing out water however the water temps never went past 95 degrees. Straight away knew the head was lifting, dropped the boost a little down to 18psi and it seem to be ok. Car probably saw about 9 sessions with each being driven hard - still manage to drive the car home in one piece.

So now a question, can I just simply just try re-torque the head down without removing anything and just hope that it won't lift the head? I'm trying not to spend any money on the motor at all as I'm pretty happy with the power/response etc. (money to be spent on suspension instead).

hahaha.. that involves a cost, however in saying that has anyone successfully removed the head studs and replaced them without taking the cams out? I know the factory cams has a indent/recess so you're able to slide a socket/extension down.

If I was to remove the head and redo the head, I might as well just buy an used RB25DET NEO motor.

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