Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday everyone,

in the next few days ill be refilling all fluids in my engine (R32 with RB25DET series 2) after working on it for a few months. In this time ive also added a oil filter relocation and cooler kit.

My question is, whats the best way to get all the fluids out to the external hoses, lines etc etc. Ive read theres a few different ways to do it

Remove the plug from the CAS

Remove a spark plug

Remove a coil pack

Hand wind the crank/pulley

In those that have done it before, whats the best way to get all fluids out to the external parts of the lines/ engine before i actually start it?

Cheers all

(did a search and got the answers above, now out to you all as to which has worked the best!!)

  • Like 1

When we fitted an external oil cooler, we unplugged the loom to the coilpacks (near the firewall), and cranked it over for a while. I'd think that as long as it won't start while cranking you should be fine. This is just my opinion - I'm sure one of the experts will be along soon to tell us how wrong I am....

The best way in my opinion is remove all spark plugs and crank it over. That removes the load put on the bearings from the compression strokes.

But don't stress too much about it.

Removing plugs also makes it easier for the starter motor to turn crank faster to pump oil quicker :thumbsup:

Also take it for a good drive till it gets to full oil temp so the thermostat opens and lets the air out while motor isn't under load

I personally don't like relocator kits as it gives places for air to get trapped till your giving it the beans then it makes its way to your bearings and bam spun big end, I lost an engine in my 32 this way :(

  • Like 1

I am aware of a few that have also had terminal issues when installing oil coolers with thermostats (mainly DIY'ers).

Seems it is obvious to them why - after the fact, unfortunately :(

Insufficient oil after a litre or so of air is introduced under getting flogged conditions.

- Impatient to test and see the temp difference

Thanks for the help guys, have an idea how ill do it now

More info on the air in the oil lines after relocation and cooler kit installed. Do you mean that the car shouldnt be driven hard until its at operating temp to ensure no air in the lines? Or that the air can not escape the lines so causes issues. Or even that there will always be air in the lines?

For info ive installed it in this order block -> cooler -> filter -> back to block.

Cheers

There will be air in the lines and when the thermostat opens it will release it in to the engine, you do not want to be giving it some beans when this happens :(

Though given how you have it set up I wounded what kit you have and if there is a thermostat at all

Going back to the start, in addition to disconnecting the coils, pull the efi relay or disconnect your injectors as well as it will still pump fuel into the cylinders. That fuel ends up on the oil and dilutes it which is obviously not a good thing.

And yes, remove the spark plugs as it will crank over at twice the speed without them.

No thermostat in the oil lines, however do have oil pressure and temp gauges installed into the remote filter plate.

Ill let it get up to operating temp before giving it any stick at all, hopefully all goes well. Thanks for all your help!

So if there is no thermosate it is a one way full pass setup whined it with no plugs and Cas disconnected till you see oil come out of cam cap through oil cap hole and you should be good to go

I would still take it easy on the load side of things for a few good long drives just to make sure all air has got out

Depending on how long it has been sitting...

After a rebuild, I had to actually start the car to get oil pressure.

Tried not plugs and winding, wouldn't build pressure(mechanical gauge).

Tried back priming it with a pump and oil invoice galleries, still no.

Started it, and got good pressure.

It just needed idle type revs.

Either way, good luck, and try the rest first.

I had same issue, new pump fresh rebuilt engine, couldnt get oil up to the filter so I closed/sealed the cam cover breathers and put compressed air down the dip stick tube and wound it till oil came out filter housing, removed compressed air reinstalled filter and wound till oil came out cams then started it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
    • Murphy strikes again! Nothing at all would have gone wrong if you had the tool kit in the car! You'd have just found the clamp loose the next time you went to touch it...
    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
×
×
  • Create New...