Jump to content
SAU Community

New Rb26 Vcam In-Let Setup $3000


fatz

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

I just bought the stage 1 otomoto kit for my 2.8 'baby' stroker with -5's. I staying with 98 octane pump fuel so I'll need all the help I can get out of my 'street' setup.

I have a couple of neo vct units and a neo solenoid laying around from my 'poor mans' v cam idea, so they will be perfect for this kit.

I'll try to get some results/comparisons once I've fitted it. I'm running a PFC so I'll most likely go a jaycar style rpm switch controller to control the solenoid.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

So this is the latest. Got sick of waiting for months for my replacement head to come back from a business I tasked with machining for bigger intake valves and port clean up, so I'll be leaving the old one on. It's already lightly ported and has aftermarket springs/retainers.

After 11 years of running GTR's and twin turbo's I'm going single heheh.

Also got a haltec plat ecu so that will control the vct solenoid.

post-12712-0-13048300-1448962005_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-56213000-1448962015_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-05462400-1448962030_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-33919400-1448962043_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

So got it tuned with a t51R first= lag monster but was sorta driveable. Sounded awesome revving to 9k rpm...plus screamer heheh, 550WHP @20psi.

Then went back to -5's and got it tuned again. Wow midrange is great and pulls well from down low! (stroker helps there)

What I've found and Yavus at Unigroup already knew is that the 260deg intake cam supplied by otomoto is too big in duration.

I ended up switching off vct at 7000 rpm as that is where it starts to drop off. So (in theory) you could leave a 260 deg cam for example at 20 or so degress advanced on you adjustable cam gear and only nose over after 7000rpm lol!

Max I rev my setup to is 8-8500 rpm so you get 1000-1500 rpm of extra power for $3000...

They need to (otomoto) sell an intake cam that has a shorter duration of say 242-248 degrees to bring down the switch over point and move the whole graph to the left a bit more :)

More development necessary before I'm 100% happy with setup, but in the mean time, in short it's a beast heheh.

I'll post a graph up soon. Don't worry about HP as dyno is a tuning tool heheh. I'll have to take it down the strip to see what MPH it pulls :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Me too. Apparently the new version of Invision will allow some customisation so look forward to a 'Love' reaction and a new 'Like' icon.
    • Which injectors are you using? It's likely the fuelling is off also, so as above.
    • Awesome to know. I have a Series 1, and When pulling my front bumper off for the first time i realised my reo/crash bar was a bit worse for wear, and was going to try pick up a better one soon just so i can replace it. Someone is selling a full series 2 front bar and brackets for a decent price, so was going to probably reuse my brackets and install the new second hand reo/crash bar. I also have a genuine Altia body kit to do up, spray and put on, and not sure if that will use the series 1 or series 2 brackets for the front bumper, so having both will be handy, and knowing i can drill holes out to make stuff fit between series is also handy to know!
    • I should also say that the while they are different the only parts that matter are the center headlight supports and center bar from S1 to S2. The center bar will work, but the S1 has holes that clips go through into the S1 bumper. So if you were super cheap you could simply drill the S2 bar. Same thing with the side/wings. They have slightly different 'clips' but can be made to work. The center headlight brackets however, cannot. This is also where the GTR differs, which has a different center bar, and different headlight supports (to either GTT system), it also has different 'wing' headlight supports which is what I am calling under the headlight. However those CAN be made to work with the GTT Reo for a GTR front bar by a small spacer and a drill/tapping a thread into the reo because the bolt positions are slightly different. So people only really need the center brackets to go between GTT S1, GTT S2, and GTR if you are happy to do some tinkering.
    • Indeed  😃  Appears the site is back up now (migrated not updated) - kudos @funkymonkey & @PranK
×
×
  • Create New...