Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just bought r33 recently, and i dont trust the previous owner..

car is bone stock..

i just change all of the oil recently. engine, tranny, diff..

i use MT90 for tranny..

the problem its sometime grinding when i shift into 3rd gear, and sometime into 4th gear, but only happens on high rpm. it annoys me so much.

and when i change my tranny oil, i found some metal filings on the magnet plug but not much.

its shifting normal on low rpm..

is it bad synchros or worn out clutch?

those issue happens just before i change my tranny fluid.

if its bad synchros where is the recommended place in sydney and how much in total?

because its a hard job, if its clutch i can do it my self.

thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/
Share on other sites

I'd try some redline lightweight in it first. Having pulled a 25 gearbox apart, they are fairly labour intensive. I had a few shift problems and redline seemed to help, would be much cheaper then a box rebuild and it might work. For $100 or so, its worth a go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7390973
Share on other sites

I'd try some redline lightweight in it first.

The teflon can break down after a while and clag up the syncro's making them worse. I only use the lightweight shockproof in diffs and (evo) transfer cases for that reason.

I would be running fresh light gearbox oil, as someone may have just filled it on thick oil. They need to be able to spin up freely to mesh at those revs. You could try Dextron3 too before shelling out for a build...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7390988
Share on other sites

i havent try that surfs blood thingy. wanna try it, but i just change my oil.. huh..

btw piggaz i call them recently, they charge me 1700 for labor excl. parts.. damn expensive.. but the gearbox still attach on the car, if not idk..

i can remove the box and send to them but i cant reinstall it.. dont know how to lift it, kinda super heavy.. lack of tools..

any reasonable suggestion for rebuilding?

1700 excl. parts, better i buy rebuild second hand one..

Edited by thebuuuuu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391256
Share on other sites

I've had the same issues and redline lightweight shockproof ( surfs blood) made them go away. Might not be a long time fix but, mine was fine for couple years after that.

If you really want to rebuild try Competition gearboxes

Pretty sure my syncros are screwed too. I put in Redline Lightweight Shockproof and it still grinds a little at first but once it's all warmed up it shifts fine. I just double clutch till it's up to temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391601
Share on other sites

By the way....I love threads like these. The synchros in my gearbox are absolutely thrashed. So badly that when it was first installed it would not engage any gear with the engine running until we swapped out the normal (new) oil for smurf jizz. It got better as it was driven, but the synchros are still thrashed.

And I NEVER get a crunch on a gear change unless I've made a massive fuctercluck** of it. All you have to do is know how to change gear to avoid the crunch.

**fustercluck - when you lose all muscular coordination and make a gearchange that a recently raped chicken could have done a better job of.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448701-bad-synchro-or/#findComment-7391896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...