Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

He also added:  No problem what so ever Dan I’m glad to help, just for a matter of interest Tomei pon cams are 9.15mm cam lift on both and are 8.7mm valve lift on the intake and 8.77mm on the exhaust, that also means they run very large ramp heights or in other words big valve clearances, that says the lobe is lazy and will have more seat timing that inherits a loss in throttle response, just thought I would put that out there.

Funnily enough, JAGR33 who used to be quite an active member on here put 260 poncams in then ripped them back out for OEM bump sticks for this very reason. "What looked good on a dyno sheet didn't translate into the real world".

  • Like 1

Nice to get the feedback ActionDan, looks like they definitely know their shit and use their experience to design cams that will work.

PS. Half way through writing this post my new Kelford sticks just got placed on my desk at work :banana:

Have still been chatting to Kelford about cams, Josh said he would recommend springs at this boost. 

 

Something else crossed my mind. If I did put these cams in, and he's right about there being 10-12% gain, that would put me around/maybe over 500rwhp. It's a stock bottom end, how much can they take? 

Well if I did this, my aim would be to dial in the gears to try and not push it so far to the right, I can deal with peak not increasing much if response can be improved/area under the graph in total increased. 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 27/10/2016 at 10:29 PM, SimonR32 said:

I literally just pulled one set of cams at 250deg 9.15 lift and replaced with 260deg 9.15 lift from the same manufacturer (Tomei). Changed NOTHING else and picked up 300rpm of boost response, so please tell me again how I'm wrong and it has hurt response?

Ok so I have to correct this a little. Turns out that there was 7 deg timing missing so it was helping it coming on a little better than it should. Tune is now done and dusted, Type B are 30rpm laggier (yes 30) and basically picks up 20hp as soon as it's on boost and holds it through top end and holds longer after peak power.

Basically for my application the Type-B are a much better option

Edited by SimonR32
  • Like 2
  • 6 months later...

Finally got some info for people playing along at home. Copy paste from build thread. 

Maxxed out fuel pump at 20psi. Last time we ran 24ish.

Need new pump then will take it back to finish it off. What to buy for intank? Currently has brand new direct wire 460lph Walbro. 

Detuned for now for safety making same power as before on only 16psi.

Slightly more responsive too, dialled for max response though and now with closed loop boost control. Power is better from the on boost onwards. Will get an overlay of new and old when I'm back there and it's finished but I've seen it myself. 

Will be good when finished off, but driving nicely at the moment.

Sounds like a f**king diesel with the valvetrain noise. Tuner said all clearances on the looser side of within standard specification and he likes them there. Can shim tighter if I want. Pros cons?

Dyno graph and vid of loud idle. 





 

 

20170522_201505.jpg

Run 3.5bar base fuel pressure, delete the in tank damper/pressure relief valve (if it's there).

Tell your tuner to derive the RPM from the road speed. You set this in the Analyse Screen (F2) and it's under Settings Menu -> Derived RPM vs Speed. Increase the load hold speed to about 100km/h, run the car up to that speed and hit learn (or whatever the button is called).

Hate seeing dyno sheets without RPM and yeah those torque figures are through the roof because there's no RPM.

6 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Sounds like a f**king diesel with the valvetrain noise. Tuner said all clearances on the looser side of within standard specification and he likes them there. Can shim tighter if I want. Pros cons?

The valve clearances come on the cam spec sheets. I'm fairly sure Kelford clearances are a good 0.1mm tighter than standard and almost certain you will need much thicker shims

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...