Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what he said ^^^ :)

mine were gonna be getting around the 100% around the 360kw mark with an E85 walbro pump so i upgraded to 2000cc inj. food for thought

Did you check and monitor fuel pressure on the dyno?

So I've just taken this ryco filter out..

Cannot blow through it. It's clogged so bad it's not funny. As in, air goes in and doesn't come out the other side clogged .

from my experience hearing from people running E85 i dont think you get much change from 1000cc inj, after about 350kw :)

**** running E85.

is the guy that built your car running E85?

correct me if im wrong but running more fuel pressure you can use less duty cycle??

Replaced filter, 80% duty in 3rd at 7500 rpm. Not sure how that compares to 4th gear on dyno however.

This was my exact experience.

I have heard other people run into walls at ~330-370kw with mysterious fuel problems on R34's when everything else seems ok, replace the filter. At least on E85.

I upgraded to 1400's thinking my 1000's had maxxed out but found out that wasn't the case. 1000's on e85 seem to really get hairy at 400, though some people reckon they've done 450+ on them? Can never really have too much injector headroom nowadays anyway. Good enough excuse to upgrade :P

Exactly, that is how we found the flow was dropping off. You have no idea what is happening without a gauge on the feed line, and you need to be on a dyno if the gauge is in the engine bay.

Speaking of which, it seems some factory regs can be too small for the 460L pumps, they don't bypass enough. The S15 I worked on recently was tuned at 60psi at idle, no wonder the car wouldn't idle well with twice the fuel pressure it should have had. It is definitely an important test that should be checked after any major fuel system mods.

are the nismo considered factory reg ?

No, they seem to work fine. I only realised the SR regs were too small after having idle issues on petrol after installing a 460L intank. Checked the pressure and found it way too high. Perhaps the RB's will be fine as there are 2 more injectors bleeding fuel pressure off...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...