Jump to content
SAU Community

Acquiring Sydneykid Suspension Setup

Taso84
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Gary's pricing is still not bad, and you do get the custom valving and extra circlip grooves that you wouldn't get buying the Bilsteins vanilla from eBay.

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

sure thing :)

You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted (edited)

The Bilstein pbf cattle dog has the following listed:

NISSAN SKYLINE Coupe (R32)

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B6 Sport

Front 24-014717

Rear 24-014724

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B8

Front 24-016728

Rear 24-016735

My shocks have the following on the stickers:

Front F4-B46-1471-HO

Rears F4-B46-1742-HO

Most people have the B6's but am not sure what the B8's bring to the party. Says they are a shortened version which would be useful at the front, not so much the back. Don't know what the valving differences are, however.

Edited by djr81
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

omnigear Proficient

omnigear

Posted
Posted

recommended spring rate for mostly street use with spirited driving on backroads?

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I have R32 GTSt, so my comments are kinda relevant to GTR, but with some limitations. So read this with at least one squinted eye.

Stock GTSt spring rates are <3kg/mm. The Kings low and the Whiteline spring that Gary recommends for GTSt with his Bilsteins are about 4kg/mm. I tried these and for whatever reason they simply don't work. They were far too low and could not be set up high enough. So I ended up with the Kings lows for GTRs. These are >5 kg/mm. They are quite firm, but the Bilsteins give great control.

I would expect that they would still be great on GTR, even with the extra weight.

I have posted fairly extensively on this experience some months back, so search up those posts for more accurate numbers and my sad but happy ending story.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

It depends. The biggest problem is getting a decent amount of travel t the front. I would recommend Eibach 65 dia springs, 5/5.5/6 kg/mm front and depending on your preference probably a kg/mm softer at the rear. Use 10" spring if at all possible and make sure you get some strut tops as without them the suspension travel is hopeless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...