Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

R33 ECU can't be reprogrammed, only R32 can. Best of luck trying it unless u get a replacement chip something like a Powerchip?

PowerFC works only with manual cars, not with auto so auto GTS-t owners are left stranded out there. So if they got an auto, then RSM for $300-400 or speed cut removing device like HKS/Trust SCD around $85 or cut wire 53 for free with risk it may affect something else....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-959676
Share on other sites

Has anyone actually looked at a wiring diagram for where this wire 53 goes?  I have heard all this talk about it not being good for HICAS but does it actually go to the HICAS computer?
According to the wiring diagram, wire #53 is a branch off the connection to the HICAS unit. The ECU does not become part of the circuit controlling HICAS. That would explain why, in general, the HICAS is not affected when #53 is cut.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-960047
Share on other sites

According to the wiring diagram, wire #53 is a branch off the connection to the HICAS unit. The ECU does not become part of the circuit controlling HICAS. That would explain why, in general, the HICAS is not affected when #53 is cut.

Ok, now does the ECU requires speed signal in conjunction with other factors such as engine rpm, throttle pos, crank angle, etc to determine how much fuel to add into the engine? Will cutting this "magical" wire 53 to make the ECU "speed blind" will have effect on any A/F ratio or timing or anything else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-961001
Share on other sites

Ok, now does the ECU requires speed signal in conjunction with other factors such as engine rpm, throttle pos, crank angle, etc to determine how much fuel to add into the engine? Will cutting this "magical" wire 53 to make the ECU "speed blind" will have effect on any A/F ratio or timing or anything else?

Thats exacly what i was thinking, How about putting a switch there so u can choose when to have the limited off for the track etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-961069
Share on other sites

wire 53 is used by hicas diagnostic and ecu to monitor speed in km/h. mine has the speed cut take off (unsure how) and i have no running problems etc.. i dont believe cutting 53 causes any problems other than being unable to exit hicas diagnostics once you enter it. it wont break hicas or make it stop working its just if you do hicas diag mode you cant exit it easily

so ive read anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-962111
Share on other sites

AFAIK, the speed signal has no effect on fuelling, it is simply telling the ECU how fast the car is travelling. When the ECU detects that the car is up to a predetermined speed, it starts into a section of its programming to limit the speed by cutting fuel and / or spark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44988-speed-limiter/#findComment-962134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...