Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello !

I'm trying to find a definitive answer on this ; do you absolutely needs a sump extension when fitting a hi-flow aftermarket oil pump ? I was told because of the extra pumping power these pumps have, you should have a bigger sump as well because theres a risk of sucking dry the sump. your though ?

Thanks!

For the cost of a sump extension eg trust it's worth it. To change the oil pump it's an engine out job with the removal of the sump. For me it's a no brainer.

I know I didn't really answer your question. But do it right the first time and don't worry about it again :)

I'm assuming your talking about an rb26.

Ryan

Edited by wld093

Yeah, sorry for not answering your question.

What you have been told is correct especially if you intend to track at some stage.

Yes if your oil pump is pumping at a higher rate than OEM there is a good risk it will empty your sump.

Do it anyway.

My engine will already be out, this is not a problem.

the problem is that I drive my car in the street and here in canada, we have tons of pothole, so the fact that I already ',scrub my pan at the moment, with an even lower sump/pan..i'm really scared to crack my pan/sump.

I barely track the car and have a tomei baffle plate installed in the pan. So I think my best choice is N1 with reimax gear.

Edited by cobrAA

Get a decent sump made. Forget that trust 44 gallon drum junk.

I have a 9.5 litre sump and it's not the lowest point up the front of the car. Maybe contact rips in NZ and get him to make you one.

  • Like 1

Get a decent sump made. Forget that trust 44 gallon drum junk.

I have a 9.5 litre sump and it's not the lowest point up the front of the car. Maybe contact rips in NZ and get him to make you one.

thank you sir. I will see what these guys can do or any other custom sump in fact. Pretty much, the last piece of my puzzle before we start building :)

The danger of emptying your sump is real. You should probably fit restrictors in the oil supply as a minimum but an enlarged capacity sump is a really good idea.

Someone in the US has recently imported a couple from Racefab so maybe worth a look if you have time for shipping:

http://racefab.co.nz

Get a decent sump made. Forget that trust 44 gallon drum junk.

I have a 9.5 litre sump and it's not the lowest point up the front of the car. Maybe contact rips in NZ and get him to make you one.

How low does the Trust one sit?

Although it might be at risk, a deeper sump is a better design than something that just has more volume by being wider on each side.

I'll give you a definitive answer, that is tested and proven time and time again.

1. Yes it is essential to fit a bigger and baffled sump

2. Call hi octane and get one of their cast sumps (assuming we're talking RB26) and be done with it.

Although I have recommended a bigger sump it is NOT in fact essential. I have just reread your post where you say you hardly track the car. I do take my RB30 with an N1 pump to the track and I have a stock RB26 sump with Tomei baffle kit. I also have 2 x 1.00mm restrictors and a good sump ventilation system. It has been fine for three or more years now.

But if you do want an enlarged sump there is no reason why deeper is better - with a good system of gates it is only capacity that matters. Have a look at some of the sumps on Rips engines:

http://www.ripsracing.com/gallery/Photo-Gallery-g5/index.html

  • Like 1

Although I have recommended a bigger sump it is NOT in fact essential. I have just reread your post where you say you hardly track the car. I do take my RB30 with an N1 pump to the track and I have a stock RB26 sump with Tomei baffle kit. I also have 2 x 1.00mm restrictors and a good sump ventilation system. It has been fine for three or more years now.

But if you do want an enlarged sump there is no reason why deeper is better - with a good system of gates it is only capacity that matters. Have a look at some of the sumps on Rips engines:

http://www.ripsracing.com/gallery/Photo-Gallery-g5/index.html

A deeper narrower sump is improved as the oil is always closer to the pickup like the Trust design. If it is gated and much larger, wider, etc then of course that is better again.

More oil capacity is always better, more cooling effect and less risk of starvation with higher flowing oil pumps.

My engine will already be out, this is not a problem.

the problem is that I drive my car in the street and here in canada, we have tons of pothole, so the fact that I already ',scrub my pan at the moment, with an even lower sump/pan..i'm really scared to crack my pan/sump.

I barely track the car and have a tomei baffle plate installed in the pan. So I think my best choice is N1 with reimax gear.

Have a look at the RIPS sumps, they don't sit any/much less lower than the stock sump really. And yeah as mentioned, avoid the Trust ones, they hang low.

This is the one i am talking about. Ends up holding about 8 litres.

You can also pick them up through Performance Metalcraft.

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1646&zenid=e4qfdu4hsjvvafq7rea1gaoac3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...