Jump to content
SAU Community

Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau


Recommended Posts

I will continue to lurk and will (work permitting) come and see this puppy in the flesh at a local track, ensure you post up dates for events mate.

Good work from Neil with the assist.

Good work from you with the loaded invites.

Rock and Roll

actually there are a bunch of good quality gauges that need a new home....I'll post up when they are ready to go. Even better if someone is putting them in a track car because they come pre mounted and pre wired in a carbon fibre centre panel.

Individual gauges were OK but I definitely should have made the move to a single dash long ago with how I use the car.

  • Like 1

hahah don't worry I'll be happy to have them go to a good home :)

Speaking of wiring, can someone with a (working, or at least wired up :)) R32 do a quick test for me?

Under the bonnet in the fuse/relay box is a brown relay labeld H/LAMP. Disconnect that relay (unplug it from its loom below). Then, try

1. Low beam headlights should work

2. High beam headlights on should work

3. Flick high beams should not work.

The wiring for the headlight switches is crazy complex for my little brain, so I just want to check my understanding that the relay only controls high beam flicking.

OK, so Neil dropped by to help mount the various new toys around the car, but I got so damn sick of his complaining "there's shit f**king everywhere in this garage" so we put some stuff back together instead. Actually, since everything is shiny and new (or at least just shiny), it mostly went together pretty quickly. Biggest issue of course was not having anything the right sized pieces to press in the large bushes, in the end the rear subframe ones had to wait

rear-subframe.jpg

rear arms all have bushes and ball joints (except the LCA inner where it turns out whiteline have 2 parts listed, and I got the wrong one...)

rear-arms.jpg

rear hubs back together. Neil had to do these since he's the only one old enough to remember drum brakes (and carburettors too, whatever they are)

rear-hubs.jpg

front suspension all ready to go with new bearings, ball joints and bushes.

front-end.jpg

made some progress on Neil's Radical's wiring this weekend, but stuff all on my car.

I did get this snazzy pressing kit of ebay which made short work of the subframe bushes http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231667756034

press-kit.jpg

Just put a correctly sized sleeve above and below the bush

press-start.jpg

turn the handle (OK, lots, and hard), and it is done

press-end.jpg

voila

press-done.jpg

  • Like 2

Well, it was the cheapest one around and they are crappy castings, you can certainly buy similar but better quality kits for 400+. but even so they are still 5mm cast iron so I can't see any problem. Certainly better than abusing big sockets like I have been. I just couldn't readily get the subframe into the press because the shape is horrible, so using just the threaded rod worked a treat

made some progress on Neil's Radical's wiring this weekend, but stuff all on my car.

Good to get you out of your garage and into mine. Thanks for the 7.5 hours work on Sunday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
    • That's sick, thanks for that, mine has much the same mods on a 400R. I just don't have the heat exchanger yet.   Might be worth a trip down the M1 to Syndey for a tune.
    • Mate , this is the current mods list Current Mods list (Installed) RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes ECUTEK tune form TuneHouse in Sydney .(Just over 2k) The car came with HKS - Power Editor but I had it removed for the full tune. I would say if you are using the car for street diving a proper tune would be better.    
×
×
  • Create New...