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Duncan's Race Car - The Most Overdue Build Thread On Sau


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There's also been some mechanical assembly....

Fuel tank is back in with most of the breathers sorted. Just need to plum in the pressure valve and mount the vent fitting

tank-in.jpg

Subframe all assembled except brakes and shocks, ready to go back in

subframe-ready.jpg

subframe-ready2.jpg

I got Matt at Racebrakes to fit a fitting for a brake pressure sender for the Haltech. The Emo at Easter had one and it was super useful data

brake-pressure.jpg

Hit the engine bay with some satin spray can and added some c/f blanks to cover some old holes (no more wet feet for Kel....)

paint-cf.jpg

Assembled rear subframe back in.

rear-subframe-in.jpg

Also mounted the fuel cooler with rivnuts and rubber isolators to prevent vibration

rear-subframe-in1.jpg

On 6/28/2016 at 8:08 AM, Dale FZ1 said:

Some good maintenance/refurbishment work going on there Duncan.

 

Brake pressure sensor(s) - going to a pedal box?

No, I run the standard pedal box, booster, ABS.  Targa regs do allow all that to be changed but prod cars don't.  In any case I've never been convinced that ABS is a detriment for rally use.

 

So it is just t-ed into the front brake line that goes from the master cylinder to the ABS.  I didn't use the rear line because I assume there is some sort of proportioning valve somewhere in the rear circuit anyway

On 6/26/2016 at 10:04 PM, boxheadmr said:

Hows the fitmemt of the cooler with the exhaust?

Close, but not touching. I hope. Will probably line the duct with heat shield once it's all back together but its too hard to be certain about space until the engine is back in with the full exhaust in the right place

On 6/27/2016 at 7:47 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

pressure sensor on brake lines is pretty cool.

 

sorry to ask, but can you run through your fuel tank setup with the valve/breathers?

Good question, I had it all wrong at first but should be fine now.

 

Basically there are 4 exits from the tank

1. Filler neck. It's standard and still has the standard cap (which vents pressure in but not back out)

2. Loop back to the filler neck. I assume this is meant as a vent to allow filling without the pump clicking off so it is standard (it Ts back into the neck)

3 and 4 are small breathers that in the factory setup go through a couple of fittings (I assume roll over valve) and up to the charcoal cannister in the engine bay.  These are now T'ed together and go into this valve which opens both ways, but only under pressure (thus allowing the tank to breathe out when it gets hot, and in as the fuel pump empties the tank) so it stays closed at other times and won't leak fumes unnecessarily

tank-breather.jpgtrans.png

It then breathes externally through a fitting which will be mounted at the rear bumper.  Need a spot that won't get damaged but is clear of the bodywork

  • Like 1

sorry I posted a pic not a link, specs here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-tank-vent-valves/atl-tank-vent-valve-8mm-push-on-vent-inline-50mbar-pressure-relief-5mbar-vacuum 

yep, it's always closed outwards unless the pressure is over 50mbar (about 1psi).  Personally I think anyone rallying without a working anti rollover valve should consider Henri Toivonen and Sergio Cresto; you shouldn't always assume you can quickly exit a car that didn't land on it's wheels...

I looked at a lot of the common/cheap anti roll over valves and was in no way convinced.  For example they would really only seal if the car was exactly upsidedown.....

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...

hmmm I have some slack update periods. Actually I have some slack working on car periods as well of course.

So, some updates from the last few months.

I mentioned earlier I had some 18x9.5 +12 rays for the car and they weren't a good fit, so I ordered some forged BC rims in 18x10+22 which should be the actual right offset for a GTR.  Oddly Rays only make wheels in 9.5 or 10.5 which is too small or too large for targa rules.  BC make them to order in any size

bc-wheels1.jpg

And they are nice and light too, look like they will be strong enough to bash on things

bc-wheels2.jpg

Also decided to replace the broken headlights I'd had in there for 15 years, I picked up a pair of base model 32 lights AKA N1 spec.  Had to get them from Japan through Jesse Streeter / Yahoo auctions since I coudn't find a decent set locally.  I also bought the brackets from Kudos that hold the gtr grill in

new-headlights.jpg

They came up nice after a clean and paint

headlights1.jpg

I switched across to LEDs too, will see how they go

headlights2.jpg

 

Changed the FPR across, it struck me it had been on there forever without being changed over.  Now I've looked at it I'm happy I checked it out.....

FPR.jpg

Got some more done on the fuel system; subframe back out with Neil's help and the flex sender mounted up

fuel-1.jpg

Started making up the lines and fittings. t fitting for the fuel pressure sender and the secondary filter are here, it will be mounted next to the surge tank where it's easy to remove and clean.  Lots of others still to do of course

fuel-2.jpg

Pulled the fuel lines off and cleaned them, mounted the -6 compression fittings on either end of the feed line. Also replaced the pump, it's been in there a long time and is a little noisy.

fuel-3.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, the fuel return lines are all complete and in place including the fittings to the hard line to the front of the car, the cooler and the ethanol sensor all back to the surge tank then overflowing back to the main tank

fuel-4.jpg

Also got the pressure side mostly done, main line to the front with hard line fittings is in place, with small/secondary fuel filter and pressure sender back to the new 044 pump and sure tank.

fuel-5.jpg

Then put the subframe back in because everything is (hopefully) finished under there.  And the main fuel filter is mounted on the HICAS rack so the subframe needed to be back in to finish off. So just need angle fittings for either end of the main filter, run the line from the min tank and to the surge tank and the rear fuel system is done.  At the front I've just switched to dash fittings but I'll finish that off including the t piece on the return for the fuel sampler fitting once the engine is back in.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, a little more progress over the weekend.

The fuel breather system is complete: In summary I've joined removed all of the factory breathing and charcoal canister and binned it (saved a little weight, and a little complexity.  Capped 2 vacuum lines on the engine that are no longer required.  Joined the 2 breathers on top of the tank to this valve as mentioned earlier that opens under vacuum (ie when the pump is pushing fuel out of the tank) and under pressure (ie to vent it when the fuel expands like when being parked in the sun). Valve is an ATL ATLTF-AF-009, and the vent is an ebay plastic vent designed for boat tanks I think (it has a small mesh inside the breather to keep stuff out).  They are mounted behind the tank in the driver's side inner guard using a generic 38mm fuel filter clamp for the valve, and a custom ally bracket for the vent.  

fuel-breather-1.jpg

Fits just outside the bodywork but well out of the way with the bar on (yes....the cars has picked up some stone chips over the years....)

fuel-breather-2.jpg

In total, the rear fuel system now has:

  • -6 e85 safe teflon braided lines (no factory hoses left)
  • 18x various -6 fittings and adaptors
  • 10 hose ends with hose clamps (on the low pressure/return and lift pump sections)
  • e85 sensor
  • fuel cooler
  • lift pump in standard cradle in tank (don't know what it is)
  • surge tank under the rear seat floor
  • 044 main pump
  • fuel pressure sender
  • main filter mounted next to hicas cylinder
  • secondary filter near the subframe between main pump and fuel rail

In the engine bay there will be the supply line and return line with a T to the fuel sampler fitting.

Also I finished up some minor but pretty much the last parts of the rear; rebuilt shocks, springs back in, and rear brakes with new seals and heat dispersing paint back on. Just need the rear brakes lines and I'm all done back there; we no longer need to use rubber brake hoses so I'm switching to braided in the rear.

rear-assembled.jpg

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

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