Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome thread, will be awesome to see a finished product. Will you continue to track it when you finish the RB build?

That is the plan. But for 2015 me and my friend have a 7000km trip to the Alps planned. So that is the main goal for next year. Italy, Monaco, Switzerland and so on.

  • Like 1

THIS IS M.I.N.T!!!!

May seem like a silly question. Why not the S54 3.2L and 6psd vs RB26 and 5spd?

Main reason is that I want my car to stand out. There is a LOT of S54 E30's being buildt in Norway at this time. And I have always loved the RB26 sound, and I have dreamt about swaping an RB into something. So it was time to make a boy dream come true. Just hope I can get this to be as reliable as the BMW engine was/is.

Fair enough. I get building a "different" car to the masses. I was looking for an E30 M3 for a while and ended up getting my 80s on with my Sierra Cosworth. Will end up with an E30 M3 one day, though sadly will never realise my dream of one running a Judd V8

Fair enough. I get building a "different" car to the masses. I was looking for an E30 M3 for a while and ended up getting my 80s on with my Sierra Cosworth. Will end up with an E30 M3 one day, though sadly will never realise my dream of one running a Judd V8

My friend have a 86 Cosworth. It will be that car and mine that is going to cruise the alpine roads august next year. He is doing a complete rebuild of the YB engine and some DTM parts.

  • 1 month later...

Got some more photos of it on email. I can see some rust on the flange, but I also noticed that there is these small braces from the flange and onto the turbes. I remember seeing that on the CX racing ones if I remember correct. Another thing is that the 6Boost manifolds are coated anyway, am I right?

Update time!

I have not done much with the car itself. There is winter here in Norway, and I f**king hate to work in a cold ass garage when I actually don't have to. So I have just been collecting more knowledge about the RB26, as well as collecting parts and working out solutions in my head.

I was surfing Ebay and stumbled over a swap kit for RB26 in 200sx. It was fair price so I just bought is. Figured that it is more easy for me to modify them mounts, rather than te stock aluminium mounts. To be honest, I don't think it is that much off. Have not had the time to test it on the engine yet.

DSC_0701.jpg

From USA company Wiring Specialties. They are making custum wiring harnesses for different cars and applications. I found ound that they was actually making a RB26 harness for the E36. So I emailed them and told them what car and model I had, and they could make one custom for me.

So I sourced a C101 plug (BMW interface) on Ebay in USA and just got that shipped directly to Wiring Specialties. So now I have a plug and play harness for the RB26 in my E30M3, hopefully.

Another benefit is that the Japan wiring harness is not having a good rumor in beeing of high quality. This makes my build more reliable and safe from electrical problems caused by an old harness. Everything in this is new, all the plugs and connectors is new. I have read that people have had problems when mapping PNP stand alone engine management systems, that is caused by a bad stock harness.

Another thing that Wiring Specialties do with this harness is that they clean it out. They route it a bit different and some boxes, relays, ignition amp and injector resistance is moved to inside where the ECU will be fitted. So the engine itself will look more clean. The wires for the injectors for exaple is now routed under the intake.

This this costed me a lot of money, so I'm just hoping it will work as it should. Only thing I need is a BMW oiltemp and water temp to get correct reading in my cluster. Also need to solder 3 or 4 wires. For the reverse, speed signal and rev counter I think. Have not had a good enough look at it yet.

DSC_0708.jpg

DSC_0709.jpg

DSC_0714.jpg

DSC_0711.jpg

DSC_0710.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Bough myself a bottom mount manifold. Claimed to be out of a old HKS kit. This is just a test project to see if I can use a bottom mount single setup, but the main plan is to cut off the flange and turn it over to a top mount manifold. Would also need to angle the T4 flange as well.

_57.jpg

h_57.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Okay, so, I have got some work done. The engine is now fully stripped down and I have made a deal with a engine shop to take care of the internals for me. And since he has a lot of work to do now, everything is on hold.

There is no rush when building something like this anyway. I have made a list for a shop in USA that sells almost every part that I need, so I'm waiting for a final quote on the price there.

DSC_0859.jpg

The cylinders looks good, so there was no unpleasant suprises when I opened the engine.

DSC_0863.jpg

Here is how each main bearing looked. I'm no engine expert, but there was only significant ware on the number 1 bearing.

DSC_0865.jpg

DSC_0866.jpg

DSC_0867.jpg

DSC_0868.jpg

DSC_0869.jpg

DSC_0870.jpg

DSC_0871.jpg

Since it is late model R32 GTR engine, the crank has the long nose. Saved some bucks there!

DSC_0873.jpg

One random shot of the crank

DSC_0874.jpg

Started to take apart the head and placed the parts in order on the bench. Rest is up to the engine builder to take apart.

DSC_0878.jpg

DSC_0879.jpg

And a complete stripped block. Ready for wash, hone, deck and some drilling.

DSC_0880.jpg

DSC_0881.jpg

Till next time

What will be done to the bottom end is:

-Fully balanced crank together with flywhee, clutch and harmonic balancer.

-Balanced stock rods and pistons

-Hone and deck the block

-Drill the return galleried to match the head gasked (10mm)

-JUN high flow oil pump

-1.2mm gallery restrictor

-New race rod and crak bearings after the machine shop have taken correct masures of the clearances

The head will get a full check with pressure testing and flow testing. Drill the return galleries and make the oil entry better.

New decking for the head as well as a good cleaning job.

The total long block will be packed with stock main bolts, because ARP is not needed for the power I'm aiming for.

There will probably be ARP bolts in the rods, ARP in the flywheel and ARP head studs. Cometic complete gasket kit for the top end and bottom end.

The long block will be put together by the machine shop, so I'm picking up a new buildt long block.

I would love to get some inputs from you guys if you think I'm doing this the correct way.

Should I maybe cost a new set of rods and pistons now when I'm first at it?

Aim is not more than 500hp anyway. I'm probably going top mounted upgraded stock twin turbos on custom manifolds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...