Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

F1 is dominated by one team with the others trying to catch up anyway.

Therein is the problem this year. Four engines and a few tokens doesn't give much of a chance for people to catch up on the engine side.

On the chassis side too few teams have any money to do anything good their either.

Not to say MB don't deserve their advantage, just that the immense costs, the limited scope for gains and the week to week belting would give the likes of Renault cause to think why bother? Teams like Sauber and Lotus will be happy to survive the year in half reasonable financial shape - something that would be a massive improvement from where they are now.

lol...RBR couldn't even catch the lead Sauber let alone overtake

the thing is "racing" does not mean "overtaking" ;)

there were races going on between all the Ferraris and the Williams, Nasir and Dan and Jenson and Perez which was kinda lol-worthy

Edited by hrd-hr30
  • Like 1

Can't really blame the token system. Ferrari caught up with the Mercedes powered Williams under the token system. Renault just aren't getting the job done!

Edited by hrd-hr30

I was thoroughly enjoying Kimi's race. Different (forced) tyre strategy meant that he would have been interesting to watch in the closing stages, when others were conserving tyres (assuming that fuel wasn't going to be an issue). Of course he wouldn't have challenged for the top 2 spots, but he might have given the next few places a shake up.

Until that muppet forgot to tighten his wheel nut.

My problem is that the limited supply of engines and the freeze are rather silly. The cost of trying to get an engine to last 1500kms is going to cost mega vs being abe to rebuild/life components at 450kms or whatever. And then locking in an advvantage for 12 monhs?

The tech around the engines cost a fortune, but the countless CFD hours and wind tunnel hours add up to far more in design and construction costs of new floors, wings for every 1-2 races. I dont see FIA freezing aero specs at the start of the season.

Everything is a compromise, and at the moment it is rather stupid to have a new engine manufacturer like Honda looking so stoopid. Renault struggling and leaving Merc GP cruising as its advantage is locked in by regs

Whats the penalty for running a 5th engine, ten place grid im guessing, it may be worth runnning 5 engines hard and taking a penalty at some point than running 4 engines soft.

Merc has already used like 80% of their tokens, id say ferrari have used alot too given they were topping the speed traps and the car is much faster already this year. Renault have only used about 20-30% of their tokens they just arent delivering.

Was suprised to see the mlcaren-honda qualify dead last, but then again not really they had a woeful time in testing. Id say by the time that car can win races it will be time for button and alonso to retire lol.

I read something about Renault saving all their tokens so they can work on next years engine or something along those lines. It's a pretty vague recollection I know, but it was something along the lines of pooling all their tokens for next years engine (maybe using tokens they will get next year along with this years)

It's great to see Kimi in a competitve car again, with any luck it will all come together and will see some nice driving. I'm a bit worried by Seb's pace but. He seems to have wrapped his head around the Ferrari very quickly

Mercedes has used 78% of their tokens and Renault 62%. They are talking about leaving them largely for the second half of the season when Mario Illien has had a chance to work on the engine and identify improvements.

So really, a few software tweaks for Renault to help drivability and then mid year use the coupons to catch up

Token summary remaining for the year:

Renault 12 of 32
Ferrari 10 of 32
Honda 9 of 32
Mercedes 7 of 32

As for Ferrari vs Williams. Ferrari has more money. Money wins.

Toyota didn't get that memo

Ferrari had more money last year too...

Ferrari will beat Williams, because Williams can't strategy. And they have a much stronger driver pairing.

I really feel for Alonso. Toughed it out with Ferrari for years and put in some incredible performances in a dog of a car, then they push him out and all of a sudden the Ferrari is quick. The only 'big' team left for him to get a seat with turns out to be the slowest car on the grid, which is no real surprise - they were the slowest Mercedes powered team last year by a long way. He has a big stack in pre-season practice. And now he's down one engine without even having driven the car yet this season!

Ferrari had more money last year too...

Ferrari will beat Williams, because Williams can't strategy. And they have a much stronger driver pairing.

I really feel for Alonso. Toughed it out with Ferrari for years and put in some incredible performances in a dog of a car, then they push him out and all of a sudden the Ferrari is quick. The only 'big' team left for him to get a seat with turns out to be the slowest car on the grid, which is no real surprise - they were the slowest Mercedes powered team last year by a long way. He has a big stack in pre-season practice. And now he's down one engine without even having driven the car yet this season!

Having more money doesn't mean you always win. Just that when you get behind you can throw a heap of cash at the problem and hire the best people available. Which clearly if you aren't Ferrari/MB/RedBull you have trouble doing.

Hockenheim turning up the pressure on Bernie. More circuits should get together and say "get farked" not paying your ransom money race fees.

Would be interesting to see how the demands would drop if Spa, Monza, Ring, Hockeheim an Barca all said that FOM had to be more reasonable or go find more dictators in developing cpuntries to pay your fees

Teams can't afford F1, circuits cant afford F1 and many fans can't afford F1. Hello WEC :) I was only looking at the Spa or Japan round this year and now looking at doing Le Mans again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...