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Had a 116 GTV2.0. Red with plastic bumpers. Was mostly stock, mostly looked OK but mostly broken, like most of them. I rebuilt the engine with some sensible upgrades so it made a reasonable amount more power, had Konis and the like on it. Was a great little thing to drive. Used to spend an unreasonable amount of money on tailshaft donuts though, and would have cost more than I spent buying the R32 to make it genuinely fast......and then it still would have had Italian electrics.

The GTVs are beautiful looking cars. I feel your alfa pain though, I am restoring an alfa 33 at the moment with my son. Sharing the daily duties with the gtr, electrics are hopeless, build quality is rubbish and so on, but just when you think you have had enough they pull you back in and always put a smile on your face. Something about alfas....cant explain it. If you have a pic post it up would love to see it.

A lot of people (more than the 10% who are gay) say that you cannot claim to be a car guy unless you've owned one.

They truly are no better than any number of other cars, but what was said above is true. When you get the good day and everything is working, they put a smile on your face like nothing else.

Sadly, as to photos.....I've never been one to take many photos of my cars. The ALFA was pre-digital, so I don't think I ever took a single shot of it.

Yes I am, cause the comfort level refinement level and safety level of the vf over the hq means for "every day use" no one will pick the hq

Cause while the hq might be oh how cool is this for 3 weeks, the vf will still be comfortable and refined after that 3 weeks when the reality kicks in that the hq is actually shit to drive every day

I dunno about you, but I've gotta regularly pull over in my VF to turn the car on/off again so the whole system starts working again. Car won't idle stable 1 day in every 10 without the same process lol.

Utter pile of over-technological junk I tell you. Was bound to happen with a new electrical system but yeah, they've got no answers for it.

But I do get what you are saying, and agree as long as you need the refinements it offers. (comparing a PFC to a HQ / Haltech to VF did make me chuckle) :thumbsup:

We have had a Vf calais for a year and it has been faultless. Of course there's the chance a dud gets made and sold, it's a shame they haven't been able to sort it out.

As far as family safety goes it hard to go past the modern cars. More airbags than I can count. Side blind zone alert, proper stability control and then there's the comfort and convenience advancements.

While a hq has a cool factor, it isn't as comfortable or safe. That factors in for certain people.

What is haltechs official statement on this matter?

If a vf is shit?

But seriously, I would be very interested also.

I can't see why they can't fix it with their software.

I dunno about you, but I've gotta regularly pull over in my VF to turn the car on/off again so the whole system starts working again. Car won't idle stable 1 day in every 10 without the same process lol.

Utter pile of over-technological junk I tell you. Was bound to happen with a new electrical system but yeah, they've got no answers for it.

But I do get what you are saying, and agree as long as you need the refinements it offers. (comparing a PFC to a HQ / Haltech to VF did make me chuckle) :thumbsup:

thats why I own an FG we only break diff bushes lol

What is haltechs official statement on this matter

They dont want to know about it, its not a problem with the haltech, put a crank trigger setup, then they dont return your calls, Like any business in australia,

Oh for those of you that are dissing alfas shame on you..... go and drive a gtv or an alfetta. when it all works the engine is sweet and the gearbox is the best I have ever used. And the exhaust note is brilliant. and all you do is smile from the time you see it to get in to the time you look back at it when you park it..... :yes: :yes: :yes::D :D

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The thing I love about my Power FC is the ability to tweak the tune on the fly with the hand controller, as I have a wideband permanently fitted.

A tuner usually only has the car for one day, so there's always part of the map that you can perfect over time, and the hand controller gives me that ability.

Do any of these "High end" map ECU's have a hand controller style tuning option?

The thing I love about my Power FC is the ability to tweak the tune on the fly with the hand controller, as I have a wideband permanently fitted.

A tuner usually only has the car for one day, so there's always part of the map that you can perfect over time, and the hand controller gives me that ability.

Do any of these "High end" map ECU's have a hand controller style tuning option?

No. Do you have a laptop? They all come with the software.

Yes I do, but I don't want to have to plug it in every time I want to make a small change. I'm also not keen to drive around with a laptop plugged in everyday - This isn't "The Fast and the Furious"!

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  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
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