Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much did you pay for EcuTek in Aus if you mind telling me? or pm whatever you prefer thanks

Tunehouse charged me $1700 for the tune. I have no idea how much of that was the license component.

  • 5 years later...

Thought I'd post an update on this, as the one thing I had noticed about six months later was some detonation when driving out of a parking station at low RPM, high load (i.e. uphill).

I've rarely had any time to myself to drop in on these guys during the week but I took advantage of my work-from-home situation (I still hate you, CCP!) and drop it in to Tunehouse for another run.

There have been a number of improvements made in the software, which I neglected to ask but we're now up to version 11 (I presume we're talking about ECUtek, not the Nissan firmware). My instructions were clear - dial out the detonation even if it means losing response, torque, overall power, etc.

The motor was around 30,000kms old at the time of the initial tune, if I remember correctly. This tune was at around 60,000kms last week. Despite the low kms, it was suggested that the OEM spark plugs be replaced (they installed HKS M54XL Super Fire) and give the MAFs a clean while they're at it, so I ran along with that.

The torque has definitely been dialled out of the low RPM range with less aggressive timing, which is what I anticipated and so the response off the line at the lights isn't as snappy when light on the throttle. WOT response from a standstill is still reasonably aggressive. I actually appreciate that because I'm not jolting the car as often, which was an annoyance before no matter how lightly I would feather the accelerator. I'm sure my passengers will appreciate it all the more! Better yet, my VDC isn't triggering as aggressively as it used to either, despite my aged but not worn Pilot Sport 3 rubber on the rear. Overall, the car is still just as fun for me but now it's a little easier to tame.

Surprisingly, we gained a further 5kW and another 9Nm of peak torque since the last dyno tune six years ago. Still, even if I lost 5kW, I'd rather that to egg-shaped cylinders from all that detonation.

Dyno Tune Update 2020.jpg

Edited by The Max

@The Max

Its interesting to see your figures to be honest. It makes me wonder a few things, my 5AT 370gt pulled 218rwkw with similar tq.
my friends with the same transmission was 217.5rwkw. (both Uprev)


Wonder if thats a tuner thing or ecutek.

 

** Both of ours stock pulled around 195rwkw on 2 separate dyno's.

Could be a number of factors but my concern was primarily not to be as aggressive on the timing to avoid the detonation, so it could well be that I lost performance in that area.

Maybe the difference in transmissions plays a part (as in greater inefficiency)? The only real way of being sure where the point of difference is would be to get back to basics, putting your engine and mine on an engine dyno first, to take the transmission out of the equation.

18 hours ago, The Max said:

Thought I'd post an update on this, as the one thing I had noticed about six months later was some detonation when driving out of a parking station at low RPM, high load (i.e. uphill).

I've rarely had any time to myself to drop in on these guys during the week but I took advantage of my work-from-home situation (I still hate you, CCP!) and drop it in to Tunehouse for another run.

There have been a number of improvements made in the software, which I neglected to ask but we're now up to version 11 (I presume we're talking about ECUtek, not the Nissan firmware). My instructions were clear - dial out the detonation even if it means losing response, torque, overall power, etc.

The motor was around 30,000kms old at the time of the initial tune, if I remember correctly. This tune was at around 60,000kms last week. Despite the low kms, it was suggested that the OEM spark plugs be replaced (they installed HKS M54XL Super Fire) and give the MAFs a clean while they're at it, so I ran along with that.

The torque has definitely been dialled out of the low RPM range with less aggressive timing, which is what I anticipated and so the response off the line at the lights isn't as snappy when light on the throttle. WOT response from a standstill is still reasonably aggressive. I actually appreciate that because I'm not jolting the car as often, which was an annoyance before no matter how lightly I would feather the accelerator. I'm sure my passengers will appreciate it all the more! Better yet, my VDC isn't triggering as aggressively as it used to either, despite my aged but not worn Pilot Sport 3 rubber on the rear. Overall, the car is still just as fun for me but now it's a little easier to tame.

Surprisingly, we gained a further 5kW and another 9Nm of peak torque since the last dyno tune six years ago. Still, even if I lost 5kW, I'd rather that to egg-shaped cylinders from all that detonation.

Dyno Tune Update 2020.jpg

was that done in a different gear to previous run? asking as the diff ratio is way different,,,,

 

3 hours ago, DashyyPC said:

Its interesting to see your figures to be honest. It makes me wonder a few things, my 5AT 370gt pulled 218rwkw with similar

depends on teh correction factor use, these runs are with DIN70020 which is not as common, not sure how much of an impact that has on the output.

 

11 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

was that done in a different gear to previous run? asking as the diff ratio is way different,,,,

You know what? I never even paid any attention to that until you pointed it out! I have no idea how the Dynapack dyno works, in terms of how it works out the diff ratio, but it definitely raises an important question. Six years had passed since the last time it was dyno'ed and unless they do keep notes on exactly how the dyno was done on each occasion, it's likely that the method had changed for whatever reason.

Seems a bit high though, doesn't it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...