Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I tried turbosmart kompact, its way smaller inside than stock bov and gave me turbo flutter. Thought it was shite, snd ditched it, put stock back on. Small hole is 'slight leak' making the on/off of bov smoother but less responsive. Plug it up as scotty says, better from a performance point of view.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451747-r33-bov/#findComment-7444024
Share on other sites

Smaller inside? Mine doesn't flutter, even on 40 psi.

The springs are replaceable, and they come slightly on the tight side from the factory. If your setup flutters slightly you could just ask them for a softer spring.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451747-r33-bov/#findComment-7444031
Share on other sites

not stock about 400hp @wls , I was getting a whistle noise on full boost.like a leak. I since have blocked the mentioned whole , and now whistle is gone, but bov now sounds different.

I'm actually getting the same thing, any chance of getting a photo of the aforementioned hole?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451747-r33-bov/#findComment-7444821
Share on other sites

I'm actually getting the same thing, any chance of getting a photo of the aforementioned hole?

Take off your bov. Look at it.

If you can't see the hole give up on everything.

You can't block.the hole with the bov on the car.

As the hole is a little larger than m5 tapping size you can simply cut slots in a bolt to make a tap if you don't have a tap handy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451747-r33-bov/#findComment-7444853
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...