Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 Synchro 4Wd & Abs Lights On, Tacho Dead.


zoomzoom
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, I just had my stagea dyno'd with an adaptronic 440 running in tandem with the stock ECU.

I didn't have any trouble with the stock ECU while doing preliminary drives on the base map, but while on the dyno, the tachometer stopped working, the synchro, 4wd and abs lights came on.

While the tachometer has stayed totally dead, the other lights would come on when you start the car, but sometimes go away after 10 mins or so.

While the lights were on, you could feel the transfer case locking up. The wheels and drivetrain would slip and grind while turning sharply at low speed. That went away once the lights had also gone.

I checked all the fuses and found that the 7.5 amp "ECU" fuse had blown under the drivers side coin tray. I replaced it with another, which has not blown yet, however it has not solved anything.

Now the more crazy stuff. Due to the transfer case locking up, I removed the 4WD fuse and relay in the engine bay, as per the photos.

However the warning lights were still on and the transfer case still was still locked up! How is that possible? What is actually powering the attessa pump?

I am thinking I should remove the front driveshaft to avoid further damage.

post-46287-0-93486400-1418879000_thumb.jpg

post-46287-0-70258900-1418879015_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the way the only code I an pull up is code 21 - injector signal. Im not sure if thats related as I dont have injectors connected to the stock ECU, only the adaptronic.

Im not sure how to check any other codes, like gear box or attessa?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just thinking out load

can only think the adaptronic 440 is messing with the ECU signal to the gearbox ECU

gearbox cant handle the power and has gone into limp mode ?

your description of " slip and grind while turning sharply at low speed" sounds like the diff lock was engaged ( button on dash )

i have fitted a nistuned S2 ECU in my S1 and it worked the gears ONCE and then nothing , only third gear

not sure i helped but maybe it has jogged something :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is like having the synchro button on, with the light and the low speed clunking. However the position of the synchro button doesnt make a difference.

The auto gearbox seems to be functioning normally as far as I can tell.

Does the attessa system have its own computer and such? I remember something behind the carpet at the rear of the wagon on the passenger side. Opposite side to the reservoir tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just bumping this. I have put my head in through the passenger side flap in the boot to try and see any flashes of light. I tried this with the ignition in the on position, and straight after starting, but could not see any lights.

I have read that the car needs to be driven over 30kmh for a minute to bring up error codes, even though the warning lights are on the dash as soon as the car is started. Can anyone confirm this?

Where exactly is the flashing LED? I poked around with a mirror looking for a light on the computer, but all I could find was a small hole in the computer approximately on the bottom right of the unit, if you are looking at it from inside the boot.

Edited by zoomzoom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, theres definitely no lights coming from the attesa computer in the back. I can't even see the "port" where the light would be that people have referred to (mainly on r32s though)

Tried manually bridging the 4WD relay in the engine bay to hear if anything worked. Strangely the synchro light went out!

Also, I did an ECU scan through OBD scan tech. It can only detect 3 computers: engine, auto trans and airbag.

I now have NFI how to read any codes from the attesa.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Woohoo, well a long story short, the ATTESA requires an RPM signal (along with a TPS signal, but that was functioning)

It seems both the tacho pin on the stock ECU is non-functional, and also appears as though the tacho itself is faulty.

Its hard to tell exactly where and how the wires to the tacho and ATTESA are joined, but I fixed the 4WD by splicing a new wire from the tacho pin on the ATTESA harness to one of the aux outputs on the adaptronic which I configured as a tacho signal in WARI. The warning lights cleared straight after starting the car, and I could hear the pump priming. Such a beautiful sight.

Tach is still dead, ironically it will probably be more of a problem then the 4wd...

Edited by zoomzoom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Just reread your first post. It takes more than pulling the awd fuses to disengage the attessa. Were you on a 2wd or 4wd dyno?

For what its worth here is the manual on turning the Attessa off (sorry forgot I can't paste to this forum for some reason so I'll try to attach it)....

4wd to 2wd text.txt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its all good now. The car was on a 4wd dyno, I only had a chance to diagnose what the 4wd was doing once I drove it on the road. Pulling out the fuses did disable the 4wd though? If theres no pump pressure, there should be no torque applied to the front wheels beyond the preload on the transfer case?

Anyhow, I was mainly sharing the tacho fix, I know theres a few people who have busted tachos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...