Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So do what? Wait till its cooler?

That would still mean the tune was on an absolute knife edge.

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

Edited by Ben C34

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

I'm not disagreeing with you, I simply put up a variable that no-one had yet commented on in this thread.

You are right, less density in air doesn't always equate to leaning out, and i never said that in my post, but higher air temps can/will and have shown to increase overall engine temp, including combustion temps, therfore aiding in the cause of knock (tune or no tune)

What turbo? Adjustable actuator? External wastegate?

Dont think this has been mentioned yet, you might be able to turn the boost down that way

If it were me I'd ring ERD (I think Dan was having some personal problems so not sure if they are still open but worth a try) and get some info like what boost it was tuned at etc. Adjust boost back to that level or lower if possible

Do I see 46 degrees IGN when everything is maxed at around 7000?

Seems excessive.

They are peak values. So not necessarily at the same time.

If it was that engine would be dead!

if its leaning out so bad with the evident knock levels then just remove the e-clip in the actuator and disconnect the rod from the waste gate for no boost and set duty cycle at 95 or lower.

that is if its a daily and u cant get it sorted in time

Edited by Dan_J

The OP has a hand commander.

One great feature of the old Fc is the ability to do a mass change to maps and then return to "as was" at the next engine start.

If you get a crook batch of fuel, it's a piece of piss to pull 5 degrees from the whole IGN map and unless you're pushing the engine you won't notice much difference.

And why would you push an engine if you're concerned about knock.

Turbo is a to4e .63 rear I think

External wastegate is a epr 38mm can't really find anything on this wastegate other then expressparts use to sell them, and it was tuned by efi performance not erd my bad. I don't really want to change anything on controller as I have no idea what I'm doing, but I will give efi a call tomorrow and hopefully get it in for a tune .

Mate you have an Fc with hand commander.

They have a feature where you can do mass changes to maps very simply, not requiring ANY great skill.

As soon as you turn off and restart, those mass changes are forgotten and the Fc maps are exactly as they were.

I use this feature after copping a tank of poor fuel.

It's also useful info to give to your tuner. You can say your knock number dropped to "X" after removing "Y" degrees of timing for example.

Download and read the hand commander instructions and there's also Paul's massive how-to thread on SAU.

i found when my knock randomly went high this was usually due to a dodgy batch of fuel....you're at the limits of some of your setup, seeing as its your daily and you have a power fc...don't shag around...get a z32 afm new injectors and a decent fuel pump.

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Yep. Or the line going to it.
  • Like 1

Maxed injectors and maxed AFM means its either boosting way higher than it should, or there is something seriously wrong with the tune.

Edit - Just read it is boosting to 20psi. What turbo are you running? TO4E means jack shit. There are about 20 different kinds of TO4E. BUt overall, you have a boost control issue is and it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Keep it running like that and you'll need a new engine in about 2-3 days

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...