Mines Baffles, Catch Can Design, Accusumps

[Sub Boy32]

I know this subject has been thrashed to pieces over the years, and I've read everything on here I could find....but I haven't seen anything new out there for a bit, and hoping there is some more definitive answers to the age old question of oil control.

Bit of back ground, My car is about 700hp, built RB30 GT-R with standard cam baffles, a shit little Greedy catch can, and a RIPS extended sump and a Nitto oil pump, I also have a head drain going to the top of the sump on the drivers side.

I took the car out to the track over Xmas for a blat around on wide 18" S/H slicks, and as it did the last time, it fired a shit tonne of oil out the catch can breather under the car and bought up the low oil pressure light at least four times around each lap, I have looked over the data log from the ECU, and it's not too bad where it mostly does it (low throttle position) but there are areas that it isn't so good.

Normal driving around town and fast blats the country hardly puts anything into the catch can, it's just moisture and a little bit of oily sludge, that's fine, but on the track with the increased revs and high G's it's a completely different story. I know the catch can is rubbish, and that is the first thing on the list to get built, but it is still going to fill it if I can't keep the oil in the engine.

So......Mines (or Hi Octane) Cam Baffles, are they going to help to keep the oil from firing out of the breathers?

Catch Can design.......Baffles? Sump return? Steel wool? Head drains?

Accusumps.....is this going to help with the low pressure areas around the track? Will I need one of the electronic valves?

In a perfect world, Dry sump is the answer, but I can't quite run to that

Any good answers would be good.

Cheers,

Chris.

Edited January 16, 2015 by Sub Boy32

[GTSBoy]

I would have said the last few pages of the oil control thread contained the answers.

[KiwiRS4T]

^^^what he said. The last 10 or so pages will answer all your questions and tell you what works and why.

[Shoota_77]

I would have thought the RIPS sump would have had a) enough capacity and b) decent enough baffling to prevent that? 9 litres or so of oil is a huge amount of oil in an engine. I would definitely put an Accusump on at least as a bit of a patch up for now as it will potentially save your engine when you do get oil surge. It will only be a patch up to a degree. If the oil returns in the head to the sump weren't done (enlarged) when the engine was built then it it always going to be a battle to get the oil back to the sump. With your catch can the issue would be more the setup of the lines rather than the can itself. Make sure it's plumbed correctly. Rocker cover baffles will definitely slow the rate of oil getting into your catch can and might give you a bit more track time before the oil level gets low enough to get surge.

My recommendation- Accusump for now to help your engine live a bit longer then when the engine comes out next time (inevitable if you're seeing the oil light a bit!) then get everything else sorted (head oil returns, restrictors (no mention of if this was done?), plus all other recommendations out of the Oil Control thread.

[GTR_JOEY]

I would have my sump breather* plumbed straight into the catch can along with the rocker breathers. Have your Catch can vented to atmosphere with large diamater filter. Id say my catch can is just under the volume of a tissue box

* the line from your sump to your rockers is NOT an oil return for your head, it is simply a vent for relieving pressure from your crankcase. You need to relieve this pressure as quickly as possible as it will reduce your oil flow through the block back to your sump

The only way that line would act like a drain is if your head had a fek load of oil flow (aftermarket pump) with no oil restrictor in your block, in which case you would be Fecked anyway.

[Sub Boy32]

Cheers guys, yeah I have read all of the oil control thread, the last ten pages as pointed out are prob the most informative bit for what I need, just was making sure there wasn't any thing else I was missing. I didn't see much in there regarding baffling of the catch can, but I'll have another read to see if I've missed anything.

I know the "head drain" is not really a drain, but that's what it seems to be called.

I do have a 1.5mm restrictor in the block, but never got the drains drilled.

[GTR_JOEY]

From what I've seen mate, not getting the drains drilled is ok

[crashsvg]

sounds like you have oil cooling problems. crank case pressure would not flicker you oil light at low rpm.when u have excess pressure that pressure relief itself usually out your breather or passes through ya rings and is seen as oil burning through your exhaust as black smoke which makes the car looks like its running rich.. when the oil heats up and thins out you would get a significant drop in oil pressure ..as long as the oil is over heating your gona get this issue.....i run 500hp in a s15 and have no oil restriction, no catch can but i did start suffer from oil starvation after 300hp ..when the power came on my oil pressure went from 70 to 40 psi .i installed a custom extended sump with baffles and a oil cooler and run a lil over 9L of oil and dont have that issue anymore.

you wouldn't see the oil pressure drop during normal driving because the oil cooling system your using now is sufficient enough to keep the oil cool for couple pulls here and there.track is another issue constant rpm over 6k and a lot of rpm limiter will heat stuff up a lot quicker than u think..

my 650hp integra throws out a bit of oil after a couple passes at the track .its normal to do that with any engine at that power....but a drop in oil pressure significant enough to bring on the light is a different problem..

what grade oil are u using and what oil cooler?

[Sub Boy32]

With the oil pressure light I don't mean the factory light, it is one on my RacePak IQ3. I'm running a oil pressure sensor that is hooked to the Link ECU and the light goes off at 100kpa

I don't think it will be an oil heat issue as I have a Link oil temp sensor hooked to the dash, and a large oil cooler, it never goes above 90deg, I run Redline Race 40, and there is about 8ltrs of it in the extended sump.

[GTRPSI]

40 weight oil, Nitto oil pump and 1.5mm restricer sounds wrong.

Id be running a 50 weight if your clearances are large enough with a 1.1mm restrictor, reduces the amount of oil going up, that needs to go back down again.

Sump breather fittings and catch can setup is very important, you need to get the blow by out of the sump, without allowing it as best as possible to go up and breath out of the rocker covers as it will take oil with it.

[GTR_JOEY]

With the oil pressure light I don't mean the factory light, it is one on my RacePak IQ3. I'm running a oil pressure sensor that is hooked to the Link ECU and the light goes off at 100kpa

I don't think it will be an oil heat issue as I have a Link oil temp sensor hooked to the dash, and a large oil cooler, it never goes above 90deg, I run Redline Race 40, and there is about 8ltrs of it in the extended sump.

If you pull off your sump to head breather, is there alot of oil residue in there? the pipe that is

[KiwiRS4T]

You can set the link to cut the engine if oil pressure goes below a predetermined level at x revs etc.

A 1.0mm restrictor would be better at keeping more oil in the sump.

Attached is a (very) rough drawing of my catch can baffles and beside it a better designed baffle system (beyond my capabilities but easy for Robbie).

Actually you could just have a series of horizontal plates (round or square depending on the shape of the catch can) with holes cut in them with a tube running from a hole in the bottom plate to the outlet.

[djr81]

As has been said the oil thread has answers.

The difference between the track and the road is you dont get time on the track for the oil to return out of the head - something which requires an absence of blow by. As for the catch can I dont know why you cant get a can modelled after the cyclones that the rest of the civilised world uses for separation. Havent ever seen one.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation

Will get around to fixing mine in that manner one day.

Edited January 18, 2015 by djr81

[Sub Boy32]

Sorry, typo, it is a 1.2 restrictor, cheers but I'm going to stick with the 40wt oil. I will use both of the sump breathers on the new catch can design as it seems to be the common answer in this and the oil control thread.

I will have to check on the head breather pipe if there is any oil residue in it.

Thanks for the sketchs of the catch can baffles, that is how I thought is would plumb up. Do you put any stainless wool in it anywhere?

Yeah a cyclone can would be cool, you could perhaps cut a hole under the battery box (R32) and run it down into the guard to get the height required?

[The Bogan]

My vent on the sump was below the oil line and oil was forced up the breather line into the head to the catch can and then all over the engine/ground/track.

A one way valve on the vent fixed the issue.

Is your fitting on the sump below oil line?

[GTRPSI]

My catch cans have always used rough stainless wool as filling, it helps to seperate the oil from the mist.

[KiwiRS4T]

My sump vents are certainly not below the oil line - that would be pointless as they would not act as vents.

[The Bogan]

Sadly mine weren't, mine were meant to be drains but as we all know now that's not how it works.

When we disconnected the fitting at the head and spun it up on the dyno it was like a hose vomiting oil.