Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys taking my R33 Gtst up to the drags in the very near future. Just looking for tips to make car run faster. Just small things. Not simple stuff like fuel tyre pressure etc. I'm talking skyline stuff like removing 2 stage boost etc. Its auto btw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/
Share on other sites

remove 2 stage boost, buy my boost controller! its a go fast bits, http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452716-heaps-of-r33r34-parts-cheap-turbo-screamer-bov-lsd-bov-r33-headlights/

use the handbrake to spool up boost then launch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7462956
Share on other sites

Hey guys taking my R33 Gtst up to the drags in the very near future. Just looking for tips to make car run faster. Just small things. Not simple stuff like fuel tyre pressure etc. I'm talking skyline stuff like removing 2 stage boost etc. Its auto btw

please tell me you have the min mods on ur car such as a full exhaust, FMIC?.

Even beyond this you are strongly risking throwing the guts of the turbo down the exhaust. If you don't have these mods then she is not going to be happy after a few runs and Ill put a greater than 50/50 bet on u throwing the turbo...

**do not recommend**

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7464520
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

please tell me you have the min mods on ur car such as a full exhaust, FMIC?.

Even beyond this you are strongly risking throwing the guts of the turbo down the exhaust. If you don't have these mods then she is not going to be happy after a few runs and Ill put a greater than 50/50 bet on u throwing the turbo...

**do not recommend**

That's not the biggest load of garbage I've ever read but dammit it's up there!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7490586
Share on other sites

That's not the biggest load of garbage I've ever read but dammit it's up there!

Iv come across plenty of people that have popped the stocker and many of them on the drag strip/trackdays.

Maybe years ago when the turbo and the engine were newer this would have been fine. but with the age of these motors and stock turbos now not so much. Lots of oil deposits in the feed lines and probably build up in the coolant feed too. Sure, some cars will be still clean and healthy. Many not.

This guy doesn't even note an intercooler or exhaust mod...

But hey, f**k it, go run it at the strip mate. enjoy. Im just doing my best to give well reasoned, non-hectic advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7491443
Share on other sites

remove everything you can out of the car

fit the best tyres you can afford

1/2 tank of fuel

Wouldn't bother with a burn out unless your on drag tyres

Redline atf.

10psi of boost with boost T

Get as much temperature out if you can before each run (take a garden sprayer to cool down the intercooler and radiator)

think 14 second quarters if it's a very well driven solid car...

aaaand nitrous fixes everything!

Edited by XRATED
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7491480
Share on other sites

If your running very light mods. I don't recommend a burnout without the appropriate tyres and drivetrain upgrades. Even though im in a manual, my very first pass cooked the stock clutch after a decent burnout and I could barely move off the line before crossing the line in an 18 or 19 sec with a very sad face.

Your not going to gain anything major without doing something major. Just remove anything that doesn't need to be in the car, even the 2 stage boost mod will likely not even register on the time sheet. All your time will be found in a clean run with the right launch.

I found my biggest gain by far is my Mickey Thompson tyres. Even my Turbo upgrade didn't do much (180rwkw upto 245rwkw), What I gained in top speed I lost in the first 60 foot. Minor gain but not enough to warrant the price tag.

Enjoy it though, I aint been for a long time and am just starting to get all the urges again. Certainly fun and very easy to get into.

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7491637
Share on other sites

Iv come across plenty of people that have popped the stocker and many of them on the drag strip/trackdays.

Maybe years ago when the turbo and the engine were newer this would have been fine. but with the age of these motors and stock turbos now not so much. Lots of oil deposits in the feed lines and probably build up in the coolant feed too. Sure, some cars will be still clean and healthy. Many not.

This guy doesn't even note an intercooler or exhaust mod...

But hey, f**k it, go run it at the strip mate. enjoy. Im just doing my best to give well reasoned, non-hectic advice.

The Adrian in the post above yours is me. I know what I'm talking about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452827-r33-drag-racing/#findComment-7492229
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...