Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Motorkhana happened, twas awesome.

Nothing broke, it held up really well, water temp didn't go over 94, and oil 95.

post-89929-0-09491300-1425372972_thumb.jpg

Decided to get somewhat more serious about track work, its way more fun than owning a loud sound system,

post-89929-0-75370900-1425373015_thumb.jpg

so old mate Sean came over and we started stripping her down.

post-89929-0-39556100-1425372895_thumb.jpg

All up including boot liner, subs amps head unit 4 speakers a tv and a ps4, it weighed around 130kg!!

noticed a difference in performance after this!

post-89929-0-92122500-1425373064_thumb.jpg

Still gotta do something about all that dynamat, it must weigh a tonne.

Changed spark plugs today coz never done it before since owning car, put in BCPR6ES-11,

post-89929-0-49104000-1425373154_thumb.jpg

Just heard from Scotty that my intake pipe and injectors are on their way, so all thats left is to see Tao at Hypertune to have my stock turbs high flowed.

At this stage I owe a thanks to -

TDR tuners in North Geelong, put a decent tune on my piggy back system.

SAU - tutorials on the forums, good advice, and chit chats with members.

Auto Pro Drysdale - for supplying me with my oils, filters, fittings, and all other random things for a discounted price!

TAS weld Moolap - for welding on intercooler (macko job).

Jessie Street - Because Jessie Streeter is a fkn BAWS.

Dad, and all my mates for pitching in.

and probably some others. Thanks to you guys for getting me where I am right now :)

Great Ocean Road cruse coming up this weekend, then I think I'll pull the car off the road and install power fc, z32, injectors, high flow turbo, and then put it back together and get it tuned on E85.

More updates soon.

post-89929-0-73070100-1425372768_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

When the time comes for a tune I'll have a fresh set gapped down to .8

Plugs might get fowled during tune though?

I wonder if fouled plugs would affect tune? I'm going through race pace so I doubt it will be an issue.

but for now running 11-12psi so she'll be right

Things are moving along faster than expected, had a friend help me start re-spraying the bonnet, front bar and lip (still got from 1/4's and side skirts to come) just to remove any stone chips and crap.

post-89929-0-31945100-1425815505_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-59597100-1425815740_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-45210200-1425815848_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-52291400-1425816054_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-15406400-1425816093_thumb.jpg

Embedded the top gear logo into the paint, just trying something new. turned out sweet!

And while he was doing that I started removing my turbo - taking it to Tao tomorrow for his high flow service.

post-89929-0-73626600-1425815665_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-06732700-1425815955_thumb.jpg

Also will install everything form here, injectors, z32, power fc, waste gate, earls braided lines etc etc...

Then throw it on a trailer and take it to Race Pace.

post-89929-0-36328200-1425815459_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Slight change of turbo, not getting my stock OP6 high flowed because full boost by 4k rpm is too laggy for me. So found a 21U (r33 standard) and am having that high flowed instead (full boost by 3500rpm). going to race pace wednesday

Slight change of turbo, not getting my stock OP6 high flowed because full boost by 4k rpm is too laggy for me. So found a 21U (r33 standard) and am having that high flowed instead (full boost by 3500rpm). going to race pace wednesday

Who's highflow didn't make full boost til 4000rpm? I'm sure that can't be right, my SS2 makes full boost at around 3700rpm and it's low mount internal gate

^ your lucky buddy my ss2 makes full boost at 4000.. mine has a few restrictions though.. dan and i spoke to stao in person he said his op6 highflow will make full boost at 4k rpm

Same here, my low mount stock mani ATR43SS2 is currently making 275rwkw on 98, full boost at just over 4000rpm. Certainly a lot less responsive than my stock OP6 @ 200rwkw.

  • Like 1

Same here, my low mount stock mani ATR43SS2 is currently making 275rwkw on 98, full boost at just over 4000rpm. Certainly a lot less responsive than my stock OP6 @ 200rwkw.

Got a build thread mate? Or specs list? Send us a pm bro

Got a build thread mate? Or specs list? Send us a pm bro

No build thread at present but here's the spec list and dyno sheet: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?p=7370873

  • 4 months later...

So had the car tuned on E85 at RacePace, the car came out with an impressive 300+ mw's and some incredible torque figures.

The car was making full boost just like a standard turbo!

post-89929-0-61495100-1438757892_thumb.jpg

Went and did a track day at sandown and ran a best time of 1:35, and absolutely cooked the brakes, so upgraded to EBC track pads (blue stuff)

post-89929-0-89351100-1438757951_thumb.jpg

Went to Phillip Island with the new brakes, and they worked a treat.

Ran a best time of 1:59

post-89929-0-96496500-1438757991_thumb.jpg

post-89929-0-40209600-1438758000_thumb.jpg

I've made other minor changes like changed the exhaust system to 3" pipe into the 6" cannon, makes the car a lot louder.

and coil overs, I'd like to do a beginners drift day to see how I like it so setting up the suspension and handling accordingly.

Thats all for now, more updates to come soon :)

  • Like 3

Nice build thread mate. Good to see you finally moved on from the stereo :P
I can't make too much fun, I went through the same phase back in the day, just not in a Skyline haha. Nice responsive power figure from the setup too.

Besides trying out some drifting whats the plans? Personal recommendation regarding any track attendance, besides practice practice practice, would be to chuck some bigger swaybars on there. Made a world of difference on my GTT :)

Hey Tim, the next plans would in fact be sway bars, I've been looking and researching them recently, was going to get a thick 27mm for the rear to really get it sideways, I'm still undecided where I want to go next, I don't want to drift (this car) professionally coz it will get wrecked! I just want to do a beginners/learners day and give it a decent crack.

Otherwise I'd have to say I really enjoy motorkhana, its not as serious as track days, also I'm going to run it down the quarter mile soon to see what it can do :P

What size sways bars did you buy? thoughts on going for a 27mm for rear straight away?

Good plan :)

I started thrashing my GTT with motorkhanas, progressed to drifting, got sick of breaking things and have now moved to circuit/hill climb/supersprint.

I have Whiteline 24mm adjustable front and rear. The rear has always been at its stiffest setting (made a huge difference when I was drifting) and the front was in the middle to begin with but I have stiffened it right up now too since moving more towards grip.

If you have any questions don't be afraid to shoot me a PM :)

Thats good to hear Tim, I thought the 27mm for the rear was a bit too much, is yours a S2? do you have the helical diff? I thought I had shagged it out at a track day when it was single pegging out of corners, turns out it was just shit grip/ to much low pressure. You ever had any dramas with your diff?

where did you get your sway bars from? ebay?

And thanks Peter :)

all good, ebay has them at decent prices, and is your 34 a S1 or 2? I believe that the S1 had some crappy mechanical LSD like the r33 but the S2 (mine) a more betttererer helical that was apparently made by true track?

Mine is a 1998 model so it would be an S1. I believe it had a torsen diff? Not too sure, didn't look in to the stock diffs too much, just knew it wasn't sufficient for my needs haha.

Ebay pricing is usually pretty reasonable. Someone on SAU (I think it was sydneykid or someone?) sells kits and can get the swaybars too, otherwise maybe chek out the SAU traders as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...