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  • 8 months later...

Update time! Engine is running again and I changed a few things up while it was apart:

  • Switched to a Hall Effect setup for timing, very similar to the setup @HarrisRacing has (Thanks again for the clarification on the wiring mate)
  • Running a Holset HX40 from TurboLab instead of the ProBoost GTX35
  • Had the head ported while it was off
  • Degreed the cams
  • Drilled out the oil drains to 10mm
  • Made a swirl port and larger header tank
  • Working speedo and a battery isolator
  • Threw in a NPC clutch

Heaps of other little things went on but those were the big time killers. Anyway, onto the pics

 

Before fitting the new pump I picked up a busted one for free, which I used as a template to make a bracket for the crank trigger (busted pump not in pics)

WP_20170204_15_53_52_Rich.thumb.jpg.0183419b3b5749887b7163b280af094b.jpg

 

Took a couple goes to line everything up and still have it clear the balancer, but I got there eventually 

WP_20170819_16_31_12_Rich.thumb.jpg.dfb5cefce7cca4da8a40cdd17ec3c128.jpg

 

Tapped a M12 x 1.0 thread into the left support bracket, and just using the 2 supplied slim nuts on the other; all with Loctite.

That 12T wheel is from Hi Octane Racing

WP_20170909_12_37_16_Rich.thumb.jpg.840a22b5b024cb7513b831d4a4d1b939.jpg

 

About 2-3mm clearance for the balancer at the closest point

WP_20170909_14_30_34_Rich.thumb.jpg.ed120253c89b369b4027c307ac4757be.jpg

 

The guts of a gutted and free CAS housing rocking a GT101 sensor

WP_20170819_16_33_58_Rich.thumb.jpg.4768615b8f3ecf680d4dadbef40167df.jpg

 

Managed to use all of the existing bolt holes to secure the sensor itself and fitted the other one just to keep water and whatever else out.

Only needed a bit of smoothing out with the die grinder to get it to sit level. Then chopped up a bit of 6mm plastic to secure the body of the sensor and clamp everything down; again Loctite on everything. 

WP_20170819_16_37_58_Rich.thumb.jpg.5310ba08ffda68581074742af3b495ce.jpg

 

Didn't really get any pics of the bolts on the cam but it's basically the same as Harris.

Grinded down the standard bolts, then got a longer M7 bolt and spaced it out with one M7 nut and 2 (from memory) 1mm washers. All with Loctite and also grinded the bolt face smooth so the letters aren't causing dramas.

WP_20170917_13_52_45_Rich.thumb.jpg.84cfb58046c7b58d8a5455c26152a77e.jpg

 

More for my reference but I'm sure someone else might find this handy.

59e6d2181ecb9_TriggerWiring.jpg.a25455e9984a96a1744964f6676292db.jpg

 

Header tank and swirl pot ready for paint. Already made the brackets and made sure they'd fit, also leak checked.

These were more of a welding practice project but I'm happy with how they turned out.

WP_20170923_14_17_43_Rich.thumb.jpg.7da260dd4ce7b6de3f5c9d41d069a476.jpg

 

Fair bit bigger than the little cylinder ebay items and used all the available space without going too crazy. I have all the dimensions for this if anyone wants them.

WP_20170923_19_02_51_Rich.thumb.jpg.6f3178823f704098d226b07219211cc6.jpg

 

Swirl pot sitting pretty too. Does clear the bonnet, but only just haha

59e6d325b0416_WP_20170923_19_03_13_Rich(2).thumb.jpg.05f5a188953eae4567886f19d5d051da.jpg

 

Using a Acewell 3100 dash for tacho and speedo, this is the supplied speedo sensor fitted up off the tailshaft centre bearing.

Had to cut and tap a sleeve for the magnet to sit in, probably would have flung off otherwise.

Got it to within 5k's for the moment, will dial it in a bit more at the next track day.

WP_20170924_11_39_59_Rich.thumb.jpg.65e8e3ef3dc0697599692753a1082c11.jpg

 

Holset HX40 sits very nice in the bay, only needed to change the oil drain a tiny bit for it to fit up

WP_20170927_09_28_43_Rich.thumb.jpg.51544dd5791066e7618df3a6ed61b4cb.jpg

 

Most of the hard work done

WP_20170927_20_15_43_Rich.thumb.jpg.5d3668d67c85e1fc8ecfb39bee0a09e2.jpg

 

Finally fitting up the BOV, welds slowly improving too :)

WP_20171011_13_27_33_Rich.thumb.jpg.6a2edf783680c1954e27cf48ee447aa2.jpg

 

All finished!

For now anyway

WP_20171011_17_36_26_Rich.thumb.jpg.813ab9a3794ea4d7af5bd97674e1e33c.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1

Thanks :)
Works a treat and can't complain for only $400

Basically the closeness of the turbine blades to the housing is what grabbed my interest, the old turbo had an easy 5mm gap. See vid below for what I mean.
A few other things went into my decision but compared to the old turbo, this Holset is better all round.

 

 

Old setup on the left, new on the right.

Boost coming along a lot earlier despite the turbos being very similar in wheel sizes.
Admittedly the head being ported would have had an impact in this as well, but not nearly 1000rpm worth.

Also the hall effect sensors have visibly cleaned up the power curve.
FYI, I rate PITS and ASG very highly. This pic is not about comparing the 2 shops, simply observing the difference in engine behaviour between my 2 setups.

22251138_10155569798626655_2081988257_o.thumb.jpg.0b3a7cd9361665dbc6dc65b35cd8de12.jpg

  • Like 1

 

Looks good! But are you going to screw more into it? If not why such a big turbo for power a gt30 can easily make with a lot better response?

Edited by klutched

It's all set for E85, so once I commit to that it will really shine
But at the moment going to E85 is a bit of a pain and I'd like to have a better clutch and the GTR rear end fitted ahead of time, which is more money and time.
I just want to drive the thing again for now

  • 2 months later...

Hey mate just on the diff ratio youre using, does it feel spot on or do you think something a touch shorter like a 3.7 would be perfect? Im about to put a cd009 in my rb25 r32, from what iv read the gearbox ratios are nearly the same as an r34 gtr 6 speed and they use a 3.54 diff ratio i believe

Edited by Nistico
Spelling error

Yeah a 3.7 or 3.6 will definitely be the sweet spot for it IMO
 

On ‎22‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 8:14 PM, Yonz said:

Also... Left is my setup with 350Z box, right is standard R33 gtst
5791f1ceb1142_350ZvR33.thumb.jpg.326ef79

 

Edited by Yonz
Quote and attachment

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