Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at some options to convert to a 6 speed box for a bit more strength and better gear ratios for my RB26 car in the build its one of the last things i need to sort out.

currently have a R34 GTT box which is good but i would like to go 6 speed so what are my options ?

R34 GTR box and cut the transer case off?

350z / 370Z box and cut and shut or adapter plate if they make one..... i can find them for SR20 but not RB

or some thing silly like a T56 or supra box cut and shut?

has anyone done anything like this or is it uncharted territory ?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The t56 seems like the logical choice. They are cheap enough and readily available.

They are rwd boxes.

The crs kit is pretty good as it includes clutch and cross member, the going rate for a r34 gtt box on its own would be more than the crs kit and a t56 plus factor in transfer care mods, then if you bust the t56 its cheap to replace.

Only problem with that is, a 2.5/2.6 RB would never pull the double overdriven 6th gear......6L super charged commodores can't with 4.11 gears, 8L dodge vipers can't either

So, you would need to buy the close ratio TR6060

350 boxes are made of glass. Avoid.

How much powers are you planning?

I thought they were pretty strong? I know the early models had the weaker syncros that were later rectified in 2004.5, but I thought the gears were pretty stout.

Any examples?

I thought they were pretty strong? I know the early models had the weaker syncros that were later rectified in 2004.5, but I thought the gears were pretty stout.

Any examples?

Could be the case. No particular examples, my info is based purely on n00bs with Z32's wanting a 6 speed. Regular factory (and a bit) tourques might be ok. More than that I wouldn't risk it personally.

  • 8 months later...

Digging up my old thread

Power say 500kw

I have got a t56 or from a R8 clubsport looks like a tr6060

Gear ratios seem to match up same as a r34 gtt box when i put them through the calculator with a 4.11 diff the 6th was obviously longer and looked like it would sit at the 2,000 rpm mark at 110 which with my engine at 9.1 and e85 shpuldnt be to much of an ask

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...