Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow SAU'ers.

I am a mechanic in a privately owned rent a car shop in western Sydney.

My boss recently purchased a 2012 Nissan Micra. Now the car is a rental yes, and our customers when re fueling always put E-10 unleaded in because of the obvious reason that it is cheaper.

Now lately ive had a really bad run of not just this car but a lot of my 4 cylinder hiace vans logging the engine fault light. When i scan with my computer it tells me every time that an O2 sensor is faulty. You can clear the code and will come back on within a few hours of driving.

Now most new cars these days on the inside of the fuel cap state that they are "E-10" Suitable. In this case the micra does not have this sticker inside the petrol flap. Doesnt stop our customers obviously. Truth is not all cars are E-10 suitable. Premature failure of the 02 sensors is very common yet when the government and petrol stations talk about it this problem is easily overlooked.

RACV-e10suitable_zps059d48b2.jpg

The problem is Nissan when contacted are not covering this type of problem under the new car warranty. I service all the cars as per book as a licensed workshop this does not void warrenty at all. Nissans reason for not covering warranty was the fact that E-10 could have been used and has caused the 02 sensor to fail.

The car runs poorly, cutting out, stalling and for a vehicle with only 20,000km on it you would expect even with E-10 the o2 sensor would last a lot longer than this. Considering the hiace vans with the lights comming on are at 100,000km plus before logging the code.

For the part alone is around $130 dollars trade and obviously i will fit it so no labour charge. But for an average Joe who goes to the dealership i would estimate they would charge around $400 to fix this problem. I know no one here would run E-10 in a skyline but this was more to inform you for family or friends who are looking at new cars maybe just to double check when buying to make sure that in the event of somethng like this happening you have warrenty. And that the car is definately E-10 suitable.

The petrol companies say E-10 is perfectly fine to run in Most cars. So please be careful next time you go fill up your little run about.

Regards,

The angry mechanic that no one ever listens to when i rant about how crap E-10 is.

Extra Info - http://www.fcai.com.au/environment/can-my-vehicle-operate-on-ethanol-blend-petrol-

  • Like 5

Hmm this is an eye opener.

While I do not fill up my car with E10 I know of a few who do (not Skyline owners).

Also I know of several people whose fault light / o2 sensor has played up and yes in these newer model cars.

I will be definitely passing this info on.

Thanks Luke!

So, you're angry Nissan aren't covering parts due to the wrong fuel being used?

Would you expect them to warrant a diesel pump of your customer filled it with unleaded?

The wrong fuel is the wrong fuel.

Don't listen to fuel manufacturers, they're trying to sell.

Listen to the engine manufacturer.

If they say don't use it, don't.

Or, take the risk and POSSIBLY pay in the end.

Regards, the angry mechanic who has to deal with customers who believe it's everyone's fault except theirs.

I just realised how that may have come across.

I'm just trying to show the other side of the coin.

I wasn't trying to say it's necessarily your fault.

No all good. Its just if the general public dont know about this possible cause then they will continue to possibly have problems. Im not angry at nissan i can understand their point of view (i worked at toyota for 2 and a half years). But the point im trying to make is just be careful. And yes ive had customers fill diesels with petrol in our rental commuter buses and have charged them for the repairs lol.

Does ethanol kill o2 sensors?

How does 10 percent cause a problem ?

If the cars ECU is programed to work out mixtures based on a 0% ethanol level it may get confused by the 10% ethanol reading and log a fault code as the mixture is outside the set parameters of the sensor. Also the most common fault code I get is that the O2 sensor has found a lean mixture and aventualy this constant lean mix causes the O2 sensor to fail.

Also I have herd from some tuners that if running E-Flex or E-85 (yes its a lot different) the o2 sensors currently on the market from bocsh and NGK still havent fully been developed to cope with E-10 to E85. Thus needing to have the sensor replaced almost every 6 months.

The leaner mixture is caused by the ethanol content causing the fuel to burn more efficiently and the stock ECU can not adjust injector pulse accordingly enough to feed the engine enough fuel to stop it leaning out. its not a dangerous level of leaning out and most cars will run normally without any drama, but enough to log an engine fault code.

Yeah, but does it damage the o2 sensor and if so how?

A fault code indicates an out of spec condition, eg too lean like you say. Running 10 percent ethanol would require a 3 or 4 percent richer mixture, well within the ecu capabilities, so I don't see how there's such a big problem. I don't doubt you have seen it. But I just winder if it really is the e10 doing it

So are you saying that a commodore that can run e85 will kill o2 sensors in 6 months? I find that hard to believe.

Yeah, but does it damage the o2 sensor and if so how?

Also interested in this question. Because as you say, if ethanol is killing O2 sensors, then flex fuel cars will obviously struggle big time seeing the much higher ethanol content.

Is the fault in question to do with the O2 sensor failing because ethanol kills it, or because constantly running lean throws a code? Because in the second instance, surely running a flex fuel car, which is programmed to adjust how much fuel is injected according to ethanol content (with a flex fuel sensor) shouldn't have a problem.

Also definitely no mechanic but would love to find out more.

And I never use e10 in my daily (Camry)

Thanks Luke - good writeup.

I use E10 in my Lancer every now and then, but mainly stick with 95 - I've been told it was run on about 80% E10 before I bought it (so 105,000kms of 4-tanks-E10, 1-tank-95). I figure if it hasn't died by now from that, it should be okay to do so every now and then.

Having said that though, new cars deserve 95 (unless you buy a diesel :P ).

I think from what ive seen the different types of gasses created by the burning of E10 effects the sensor causing damage. Nearly all the sensors I pull out which are faulty are very white as if running super lean.

The engine code logged when I replace an o2 actually states that the sensor has a short or open circuit. Along with say bank 1 sensor 1 or whichever is causing the light.

In regards to a commadore running the E-85/98 from factory they would have a simillar set up to the E-Flex of an aftermarket set up. Also the ECU would be programed say like a HALTEK aftermarket unit would be to look and adjust for the varied levels of ethanol. In regards to this same mix destroying an o2 im not sure. They may have a sensor that is suited for this mix but i would dare say most average people would buy this model of car and rarely put E-85 in it. I cant prove or disprove this theory at all properly.

All i can say is in my experience so far in the last 5 years or so that E10 has become more available, customers with a running problem and engine check light on have been using E-10. Pretty much when i scan and see the code first question I ask is what fuel do you run 9 out of 10 would say E-10.

Best example was a bloke came in with a VZ senator which was a couple years old. He didnt understand why it ran like absolute shite. Until he told me it was running on E-10. It was logging engine codes for running lean ect. But at the time had not made a fault in the o2. But he hasnt been back with complaints since i told him to run at least 95 with no ethanol so could be correct.

I wont even run E10 in my wifes little starlet 96 model haha.

Yah each case can be different. These are just the experiences ive had over the years. good to hear of others and their experience with this fuel.

thanks for everyone and their input, keep it comming :)

e10 is crap, but not due to the ethanol content.

Modern cars use wideband o2 sensors, depending how these are mounted the extra moisture in the ethanol can damage the heater element. Otherwise they should last many years.

Interesting. Does the Micra's manual mention anything about e10? I wonder if Nissan are meeting their legal responsibilities. Remember they will often turn down warrantee requests that they are legally obligated to provide, hoping you are ignorant of the law and accept their decision. You could even make that case that if during the purchase process you were not specifically informed that the car cannot run on e10 then you were sold the vehicle under false pretences, as it would be a perfectly reasonable expectation that the car can run on e10. The consumer law is strong, so its worth investigating.

I've been mostly using the United 95 octane e10 in the Stagea for about 20,000kms....

HAHA Fatz.

Ah have not read through the manual yet but I had to fill the car up yesterday after replacing the sensor. On the inside of the petrol flap it has a sticker that reads "Unleaded fuel only". So nothing about E10 as such but also doesnt say it wont run properly on E10. Bit quiet at work might have a read and see if it states exactly what fuel you are ment to run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...