Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if a visible tow hook/sticker also a requirement for our days?

It's prefered. For circuit racing it's mandated, for sprint days the rules are relaxed. If it's not marked it take longer to recover the car.

  • Like 2

Just wondering if a visible tow hook/sticker also a requirement for our days?

If you don't have a properly accessible tow hook, especially on the front of your car, then you accept your front bar might be damaged if you do need to be towed off the track. The recovery guys are not going to wait for you to take your front bar off. Stickers cost $2. Put a tow strap connected to your factory chassis tow point in the front and then cut a neat incision through the front bar. Modern cars have the tow point already mounted through the front bar, just pop off the front cover plate and screw in a tow loop for the day.

  • Like 2
  • 5 weeks later...

For anyone who thinks they or their car isn't up to attending these days should read this, come on, have a go, really isn't hard to sort out the extinguisher and we can give guidance.

http://www.motormag.com.au/features/1601/opinion-track-days-are-the-answer/

  • Like 3

I concur and thanks for the encouragement to enter on Saturday billywiz (yeah I drove lika fairy)

There is a link on the forums to a fire extinguisher mounting bracket made by evok3d. I bought one and all fitted well in a couple of minutes.

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...

Having done Calder Park yesterday this is a 'note to self' for scrutineering next time:

  • Fire extinguisher needs to have a date (mine didn't?! must have been a Bunnings special)
  • That date needs to be less 3 years old
  • They also check the expiration date on the harness if you have one

Does anyone know what the go is with the age of the helmet? The guy looked at mine and passed it but I don't think there's a date on it and it's positively ancient...

Also I'm pretty sure there's a date somewhere on the Sparco fixed back, does that need to be valid for club level events?

They were looking at the helmet sticker (see page1 of the thread) and whether the helmet was beaten up/cracked/frayed chin strap etc.

As for harness, shakes head at track car rules applied to street cars on a track - so I can use a +25yr old OEM 3pt lap sash and pass but the 6pt harness has expired by a month :-)

  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...