Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

i just got my first Skyline, and this is my first post on this site,

big thanks to all you guys, i did alot of reading on this site before i decided to do this build

This is the Car

Its a 1991 R32 Gtr

post-139044-0-42052500-1424225473_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-64085500-1424225483_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-50051500-1424225674_thumb.jpg

post-139044-0-27050900-1424225683_thumb.jpg

grabbed it of ebay from a retired policeman in Newcastle

its not running, blown turbos,

we towed it back to Sydney and are now in the process of bringing it back to life

post-139044-0-00769700-1424225678_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/453974-r32-build-log-my-first-skyline/
Share on other sites

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

Saw this on ebay. Congrats on the purchase. Looks like a good base to start with.

That's a rare colour so I'm told.

"The factory Pearl Blue is a special order on the V-specs (according to an independent site, only around 300 ever made"

Will it be a period correct resto or balls out build? Either way, looking forward to the end product

definitely like the blue paint and would love to keep it,

i just need to track down the colour,

as for the restore or balls to the wall,

im not chasing a actual power figure, but i want to build a very capable street racer,

low lag, lots of power, (essentially the impossible dream)

i rather have 700 HP and less lag instead of 1000 hp and a lag monster

has anyone used this turbo before, ive been told with the 3.4L engine it should be making 20psi by 3000rpm,

and for the manifold, i just checked for a steam pipe one, that looks really good, thanks for the tip

The Borg warners are fantastic from what i have heard. My tuner has been trying to convince me for years.

I would just make sure you do all the reading in and actually decide on a figure you want. Will help with the overall build.

big thanks Anfanee

i honestly did not know what to do with the gearbox, and ive never seen that gearset before

and that set is really good (smooth and quiet) from what im told, i dont like the idea of a "dog box" or a sequential

i want a regular manual car, that i can drive every day if i want to, no crunching and jerking

so with your help i quickly found this link, the guy from just jap says the gears will hold 800hp ish

http://justjap.com/os-giken-cross-gear-set-nissan-bnr32.html

but i need to get a working R33 GTR gearbox to install the parts in , thats where im stuck

i rang around, there are none that i could find 2nd hand

the only other option i have is to get a R34 GTR gearbox and hope it holds,

but im thinking the gearset might be stronger,

anyone have any experience

... $60,000 build. If you think you will finish it for much less than that your kidding yourself.

...20-25k on a 3.4 stroker engine and bolt on's and you're going to cheap out on a manifold and gate?

Set some goals, set out a budget and build something achievable for you.... a 60% car that runs is a lot more fun than a 99% car that's in bits still.

Cheers

J.

By the way you have written your opening posts, your running head first into it (like we all do).... and I have impressed upon you the scope of a build (in dollars, not to mention the time) you are talking about.

What you have said is somewhat contradictory though... why use obviously cheap and inferior parts for a 'reliable' build, why go a full tilt 3.4lt build for a 'strong car' ... why choose a 1000hp capable turbo that IS going to be laggy- when you're stating '700hp and less lag'?

... so I get to my last comment. Have a little think about what you want out of the car, do the research and choose components based on what you out of your car (as best as you can afford) within reason.

Gearbox... again comes down to what your actual goals are, what you intend to use the car for and what your budget is.

If you want a fast, reliable, easy street car that is very capable on the track... look at an r34 GTR conversion with the stock r32 GTR gearing. If you want to drag race, throw a 2 speed power glide in it.

I do like the colour... have fun with it, because building a GTR is a rewarding experience.

Cheers

J.

  • 2 weeks later...

Now comes the fun part

im keen on a pretty involved rebuild

and i wanted to get some advice

the build list (so far)

rub back and respray $3500

Rb30 Bottom End $500

RB34 Stroker kit (pistons crank and rods) $5600

borg warner efr 9180 Turbo $3700

Brian Crower BC0230 Valve Springs $500

Hks Camshaft 272 10.2 LIFT STEP 2 $1000
Headwork port and polish $1500
GFB Wastegate $700
ebay single turbo exhaust manifold $700
4 inch turbo back exhuast $1800
Haltech plug in ECU and flex module $2500

im still unsure what fuel setup to install

and i know there will be many many many other parts i will need (happy for any advice)

im not chasing any particular power figures

i just want a good strong car that will be "reliable"

any help will be appreciated

That's $22,000 plus the price of the car............

I hope you have more success than I do.

I always do my arse on these type of builds.

I genuinely wish you good luck.

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...