Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think that for that you will find that Nismos will rise in price sharply. Even more than they have already. With them now being legal in the US, the price of limited edition classic cars going crazy all over the planet and the way that the Japanese are increasingly putting a value on these cars, I expect for them to go up dramatically in the next 12-24 months.

I looked at it like this. Since I was dead set on getting a nismo car myself and actually passed on one. If I get a nismo car, I would want to keep it stock and original. Not saying that these cars can't be fun original. But I'm looking to make a fun car with more power, suspension etc. As much as I like nismo, I just couldn't bring myself to buy one then alter it. So I just got a normal GTR, put as many nismo goods on it, and kind of make your own nismo gtr. Now being that I am american, just having a GTR in general is pretty special and "collectible". That is just how I looked at it. Plus I was like no a/c......I don't want to be picking up chic's in the dead heat of summer with no A/C lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

I looked at it like this. Since I was dead set on getting a nismo car myself and actually passed on one. If I get a nismo car, I would want to keep it stock and original. Not saying that these cars can't be fun original. But I'm looking to make a fun car with more power, suspension etc. As much as I like nismo, I just couldn't bring myself to buy one then alter it. So I just got a normal GTR, put as many nismo goods on it, and kind of make your own nismo gtr. Now being that I am american, just having a GTR in general is pretty special and "collectible". That is just how I looked at it. Plus I was like no a/c......I don't want to be picking up chic's in the dead heat of summer with no A/C lol.

I thought the nismo had ac and it was only the n1 that didn't?

AFAIK it was only the N1s that didn't come with AC period. I've heard varying sources tell me AC was either still standard or at least an option on the Nismos. I can say for sure it was available from the factory though because I have an authentic Nismo in my garage now and it has working factory AC (well, the AC is working but I can't switch it to heat currently because the blend servo's out - no biggie here in the deserts of Arizona lol).

I didn't realize the value of Nismo's were that high before reading this thread. Makes me feel even better about the deal I got on this one. She's a solid runner but needs some aesthetic TLC however for me that's a bit of a plus because now I can tastefully modify her without worrying about "ruining" an unmolested Nismo like purists might take issue with :)

Pics would be nice...........

I'm 99.9% sure air conditioning was an option on Nismos.

Just remember, these were homologated specials meaning if they had air std then they would have had to run with air in the race cars.

The whole idea of these cars was to make them as light as possible for the same reason.

Bob.

Pics would be nice...........

I'm 99.9% sure air conditioning was an option on Nismos.

Just remember, these were homologated specials meaning if they had air std then they would have had to run with air in the race cars.

The whole idea of these cars was to make them as light as possible for the same reason.

Bob.

I don't know myself if it was optional or standard for all Nismos, I was just confirming that it was available from the factory in response to one of the above posts where JTCC thought it wasn't at all offered. I know of a second Nismo here in Arizona also with AC so mine's not an oddity. The sources I've looked at all agree on the body kit, ABS delete, GMG paint, and rear wiper delete as common to all Nismos but they conflict on the AC bit.

I'd post pics but can't do it from this PC. I'll try to when I'm on my own :)

Been looking at these cars for too long to remember, both N1s and Nismos, most have had AC fitted at a later date, I can only think of a handful without ac and the correct slider type climate control panel. You can tell the ac is added by the colour of the liquid line that runs over the bonnet latch panel, black line is early and probably fitted when new at the factory for a Nismo, and natural aluminium is the later type system that they possibly cost cut to save on a bit of black paint!

The Nismos will appreciate substantially, they were the car with the parts homologated so the race Group A cars could run some of the trick body and engine bits. The parts on these cars would have been very beneficial to the race cars success. The N1 was built as a race car so same same but different I guess. The Nismo had to be sold to the public as group A rules at the time dictated same as a Group A Commodore, Sierra RS500 Cosworth etc, so there 'should' be more survivors, but really they are as rare as each other as age, hard roadside objects and low class driving dictate. Hold on to your GTR special!

Edited by blur

I don't have great pics of my Nismo yet since I just got her recently but as requested, here's a couple:

DSC06400sml_zpscb7sbfco.jpg

DSC06398sml_zpss2l7mxun.jpg

She needs some work to return her to her former glory but that's all in the works and I'll have better pics as I go through that process.

  • Like 2

Are those wheels Regamasters?

Yup. Not a fan of them myself to be honest so this weekend I'm swapping them out for a set of TE37SLs in Double Pressed Black. The tires on the car were rotted so I'm glad I had a fresh set waiting to be put on. I know TE37s aren't very original but they seem classic for this car and fitting for a Nismo.

Are those wheels Regamasters?

Yup. Not a fan of them myself to be honest so this weekend I'm swapping them out for a set of TE37SLs in Double Pressed Black. The tires on the car were rotted so I'm glad I had a fresh set waiting to be put on. I know TE37s aren't very original but they seem classic for this car and fitting for a Nismo.

Nice choice of wheel but the Regamasters are still pretty sweet also :)

Or go Nismo LMGT 4's.

Nice choice of wheel but the Regamasters are still pretty sweet also :)

Or go Nismo LMGT 4's.

I hear the Regamasters are good quality so I'm not knocking them but I just didn't care for how plain they looked on this car - the dark grey color they were in just seemed kind of dull with the grey color of the rest of the car. I thought about LMGT 4s but I ended up really liking the look of these TE37SLs with the double pressed black color.

Swapped them out this weekend and now the car looks like the pics below. First thought I had was that she's starting to look like a proper Skyline (after I also did a wash and defunked the interior a bit lol). Apologies for the crappy pics but it was starting to get dark by the time I finished up.

DSC06625_zps6e7r1cec.jpg

DSC06623_zpslaxtbmyi.jpg

  • Like 1

Car looks great with the new wheels and sits nice as well.

Well done mate :)

Thanks! I can't take credit for the stance since the previous owner had fitted aftermarket suspension already and picked some nice bits - Cusco and Bilstein stuff. Some of the stuff he did to the car might be questionable but not in the suspension department lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...