Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And yet Kinkstaah made 400kw through a Blitz return flow on his 34... It's easy to blame certain parts, but a 180 degree bend isn't going to hold you back 50kw unless it has a rag in it.

  • Like 3
  • 3 months later...

I have the blitz return flow and had unexpectedly low power figures comparatively with similar non return flow based setups. Haven't had time to isolate return flow as the issue yet.

I have the blitz return flow and had unexpectedly low power figures comparatively with similar non return flow based setups. Haven't had time to isolate return flow as the issue yet.

Only seems to be an issue on 34's, but what are the actual differences between the two RB25 motors that would make any discernible difference? I realize the combustion chamber is smaller, could it be carbon buildup? Or perhaps the traction throttle plate is closing causing lower power figures? Tao is trying to get to the bottom of it too.

Unfortunately if you don't want a return flow, and you don't want to make your car defectable by cutting holes, you will need custom piping with a cross flow cooler. (either up past the radiator or u bend behind the cooler.)

  • Like 1

I'm scratching my head a bit with my R34 as well. With 3" exhaust and standard SMIC it was well down on power, VCT seemed to make no difference between 4000 and 6000RPM, and it just wouldn't take any timing.

Since then changed my coil packs to splitfires and put a Blitz return flow in and I have cranked in 6 degrees across the board without any pinging issues, and the car now pulls WAY better. Boost is untouched on 10psi (logging MAP afterwards indicates almost no change).

Boost line is off the compressor elbow. So if the previous SMIC was a restriction it should have dropped pressure across it (and the FMIC should show more at the manifold). But that's not happening.

Maybe it's air temperature related? R34s get pingy once the intake temps go up? Or maybe my previous coil packs were causing pinging (sounds odd I know.. but I DID have 2 intermittent coils)

Hmmm looking at buying one of these return flow Blitz coolers butt looking here seems like it isn't going to work for me adding up to my 300rwkw mark hmmm would someone recommend maybe HDi ive heard good things about them I just wanted something that would fit without cutting holes but looks like it isn't gunna happen.

The china spec return flow from Just Jap held 320rwkw for me on 22psi so maybe have a look at that. I don't know who else is using it but I haven't had any problems with it

Brennan can you link us I can't see it on JJ

It would appear they don't sell the exact model I have but it is essentially this cooler, with the return style piping kit that they sell separately

http://justjap.com/engine/forced-induction/intercooler-kits/cooling-pro-type-1-intercooler-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html

If the link doesn't work blame my phone

  • Like 1

Blitz should do 300 easily on a 33, only 34's seem to have some issues with them, but it is obviously something else causing it if they work fine on some cars not others.

The stock cooler will flow 250kw, how can a Blitz be no better?

Cutting holes isn't the answer. Get custom piping made for the cold side if you go for the HDI.

  • 1 month later...

Word on the street is the newer blitz Se return pipes are smaller diameter than the older ones

Not sure on truth. I'm still

In the process of running tests with a cheap JJR return flow kit

Edited by Therealsandybang
  • 1 month later...

Blitz should do 300 easily on a 33, only 34's seem to have some issues with them, but it is obviously something else causing it if they work fine on some cars not others.

The stock cooler will flow 250kw, how can a Blitz be no better?

Cutting holes isn't the answer. Get custom piping made for the cold side if you go for the HDI.

Scott - What do you mean custom piping made? Piping that doesn't require cutting the frame to get the IC pipe up there :O

Scott - What do you mean custom piping made? Piping that doesn't require cutting the frame to get the IC pipe up there :O

There is enough room usually to get 2.5 inch piping up past the radiator, if you cut the shroud a little.

You can also run it behind the intercooler and back to the factory piping. No need to make your car defective these days, especially if it has an airbag as it can't ever be engineered.

There is enough room usually to get 2.5 inch piping up past the radiator, if you cut the shroud a little.

You can also run it behind the intercooler and back to the factory piping. No need to make your car defective these days, especially if it has an airbag as it can't ever be engineered.

That would be awesome! Obviously need custom pipework though.

I wish you lived in Sydney or I lived in Melbourne.

  • 4 weeks later...

I ordered a Blitz Cooler heard a lot of good things about them I like the choice of not cutting holes yes I know I have to trim the reo bar but hey everyone loves a trim.

I got the cooler just have to fit it im looking by the end of my mods an easy 300rwkw not going to go over that just want 300rwkw street driven so should do fine.

Im running a plazmaman entry level front mount with custom pipes that join to the standard return flow setup.. it made 324kw with 16psi at 4krpm with very little drop in psi and faulty coils and maxed out injectors on e70.. where is my previous setup made 265kw on 18psi at 4.1krpm dropping 3-4psi with a cooling pro bolt on kit which was causing restrictions past 265kw on 98

Im running a plazmaman entry level front mount with custom pipes that join to the standard return flow setup.. it made 324kw with 16psi at 4krpm with very little drop in psi and faulty coils and maxed out injectors on e70.. where is my previous setup made 265kw on 18psi at 4.1krpm dropping 3-4psi with a cooling pro bolt on kit which was causing restrictions past 265kw on 98

Yes but some how your SS2 is god like haha

I still don't understand how you managed to make 324kw on 16psi, it's just insane.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...