Jump to content
SAU Community

Return Flow Intercooler Vs Regular Front Mount Intercooler Question

yoshiii335

By yoshiii335,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ben C34
Ben C34

Have you got a darker photo from further away?

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

And yet Kinkstaah made 400kw through a Blitz return flow on his 34... It's easy to blame certain parts, but a 180 degree bend isn't going to hold you back 50kw unless it has a rag in it.

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

My main concern is that what looks like the same cooler might have a core with very different internals and hence very different dP. The other thing with IAT is that what results you get depend VERY

Posted Images

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

And yet Kinkstaah made 400kw through a Blitz return flow on his 34... It's easy to blame certain parts, but a 180 degree bend isn't going to hold you back 50kw unless it has a rag in it.

  • Like 3
  • 3 months later...
Therealsandybang Rising Star

Therealsandybang

Posted
Posted

I have the blitz return flow and had unexpectedly low power figures comparatively with similar non return flow based setups. Haven't had time to isolate return flow as the issue yet.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I have the blitz return flow and had unexpectedly low power figures comparatively with similar non return flow based setups. Haven't had time to isolate return flow as the issue yet.

Only seems to be an issue on 34's, but what are the actual differences between the two RB25 motors that would make any discernible difference? I realize the combustion chamber is smaller, could it be carbon buildup? Or perhaps the traction throttle plate is closing causing lower power figures? Tao is trying to get to the bottom of it too.

Unfortunately if you don't want a return flow, and you don't want to make your car defectable by cutting holes, you will need custom piping with a cross flow cooler. (either up past the radiator or u bend behind the cooler.)

  • Like 1
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

I'm scratching my head a bit with my R34 as well. With 3" exhaust and standard SMIC it was well down on power, VCT seemed to make no difference between 4000 and 6000RPM, and it just wouldn't take any timing.

Since then changed my coil packs to splitfires and put a Blitz return flow in and I have cranked in 6 degrees across the board without any pinging issues, and the car now pulls WAY better. Boost is untouched on 10psi (logging MAP afterwards indicates almost no change).

Boost line is off the compressor elbow. So if the previous SMIC was a restriction it should have dropped pressure across it (and the FMIC should show more at the manifold). But that's not happening.

Maybe it's air temperature related? R34s get pingy once the intake temps go up? Or maybe my previous coil packs were causing pinging (sounds odd I know.. but I DID have 2 intermittent coils)

HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
Posted

Hmmm looking at buying one of these return flow Blitz coolers butt looking here seems like it isn't going to work for me adding up to my 300rwkw mark hmmm would someone recommend maybe HDi ive heard good things about them I just wanted something that would fit without cutting holes but looks like it isn't gunna happen.

RBrennan25 Grand Master

RBrennan25

Posted
Posted

The china spec return flow from Just Jap held 320rwkw for me on 22psi so maybe have a look at that. I don't know who else is using it but I haven't had any problems with it

RBrennan25 Grand Master

RBrennan25

Posted
Posted

Brennan can you link us I can't see it on JJ

It would appear they don't sell the exact model I have but it is essentially this cooler, with the return style piping kit that they sell separately

http://justjap.com/engine/forced-induction/intercooler-kits/cooling-pro-type-1-intercooler-kit-nissan-skyline-ecr33.html

If the link doesn't work blame my phone

  • Like 1
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Blitz should do 300 easily on a 33, only 34's seem to have some issues with them, but it is obviously something else causing it if they work fine on some cars not others.

The stock cooler will flow 250kw, how can a Blitz be no better?

Cutting holes isn't the answer. Get custom piping made for the cold side if you go for the HDI.

  • 1 month later...
Therealsandybang Rising Star

Therealsandybang

Posted
Posted (edited)

Word on the street is the newer blitz Se return pipes are smaller diameter than the older ones

Not sure on truth. I'm still

In the process of running tests with a cheap JJR return flow kit

Edited by Therealsandybang
  • 1 month later...
kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

Blitz should do 300 easily on a 33, only 34's seem to have some issues with them, but it is obviously something else causing it if they work fine on some cars not others.

The stock cooler will flow 250kw, how can a Blitz be no better?

Cutting holes isn't the answer. Get custom piping made for the cold side if you go for the HDI.

Scott - What do you mean custom piping made? Piping that doesn't require cutting the frame to get the IC pipe up there :O

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Scott - What do you mean custom piping made? Piping that doesn't require cutting the frame to get the IC pipe up there :O

There is enough room usually to get 2.5 inch piping up past the radiator, if you cut the shroud a little.

You can also run it behind the intercooler and back to the factory piping. No need to make your car defective these days, especially if it has an airbag as it can't ever be engineered.

kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

There is enough room usually to get 2.5 inch piping up past the radiator, if you cut the shroud a little.

You can also run it behind the intercooler and back to the factory piping. No need to make your car defective these days, especially if it has an airbag as it can't ever be engineered.

That would be awesome! Obviously need custom pipework though.

I wish you lived in Sydney or I lived in Melbourne.

  • 4 weeks later...
HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
Posted

I ordered a Blitz Cooler heard a lot of good things about them I like the choice of not cutting holes yes I know I have to trim the reo bar but hey everyone loves a trim.

I got the cooler just have to fit it im looking by the end of my mods an easy 300rwkw not going to go over that just want 300rwkw street driven so should do fine.

Artic Choc Rising Star

Artic Choc

Posted
Posted

Im running a plazmaman entry level front mount with custom pipes that join to the standard return flow setup.. it made 324kw with 16psi at 4krpm with very little drop in psi and faulty coils and maxed out injectors on e70.. where is my previous setup made 265kw on 18psi at 4.1krpm dropping 3-4psi with a cooling pro bolt on kit which was causing restrictions past 265kw on 98

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Im running a plazmaman entry level front mount with custom pipes that join to the standard return flow setup.. it made 324kw with 16psi at 4krpm with very little drop in psi and faulty coils and maxed out injectors on e70.. where is my previous setup made 265kw on 18psi at 4.1krpm dropping 3-4psi with a cooling pro bolt on kit which was causing restrictions past 265kw on 98

Yes but some how your SS2 is god like haha

I still don't understand how you managed to make 324kw on 16psi, it's just insane.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...