Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Almost got screwed over buying a engine off the internet but luckily clicked on before money exchange so now I've decided to build my own rb26/30. Was thinking of buying all the parts and then sending off to get prepped and built somewhere in melbourne. Currently have racepace in mind but not sure who else is a reputable rb engine builder in Melbourne so anyone willing to share there experiences with who they got there's built with would really help me make up my mind where to take mine. Wanting to use all nitto Pistons, rods and oil pump ect.

I did just also have a look on rips racing webpage and the do a nice forged short block for around $7500 and complete forged bottom end package for 12k which looks very enticing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454261-engine-builders-melbourne-rb2630/
Share on other sites

I was looking at doing the same thing, the RIPS engines look like good value but forged and built engines for that matter aren't always perfect and NZ isn't exactly a stone throw away if something goes wrong. Not that you have much of a warranty with a locally built engine either.

RacePace aren't huge fans of the 26/30 combination, they prefer to stroke them out to 2.8s, but I'm sure if you were adamant about it they would build you one.

Yeh the rips engine might be the way I end up going I think. They have a good reputation of making solid engines which put out decent power figures. Also looking at but a bare rb26 head and sending it off to Lewis engines to get ported and built.

Cheers for that. Will be buying a series 2 rb30 block and new 26 head off justjap nd taking it to them with all my all my nitto Pistons, rods and oil pump.

Give Chris a call on 03 9762 9421 first to discuss some options :)

I'm building an engine with Chris soon and he doesn't like RB26/30s in GTRs. He may build an engine alone for you if that's all you want and you're adamant about going down that path, I think it's mostly the installation in GTR process he's not a fan of, but will prolly talk you into a stroker because he reckons they run smoother and produce much the same power as a dirty anyway.

And yeah call any workshop about your plans before you buy your bits...some workshops, my former self included, don't like it when people just rock up with a mixture of self purchased parts and then expect it to gel together and some sort of warranty on top of that. A reputable engine builder will have played around with different parts and found what works best for them and what they build; I'd be going with stuff the builder recommends, even if you source it yourself. RacePace are pretty good on parts there's not much margin for it - worth it for me when you can leave it all in their hands and it's another build that they've done a hundred times before.

  • Like 1

As I said in previous post it's not going in a GTR it's going in a gtst :-/

Yeh fair enough but I won't be rocking up with a mixture of parts only quality nitto internals, nitto oil pump and asr race sump.

Sounds like a mixture of parts to me, even if they are quality units... There may be something about the combination which causes issues, thus talk to your builder BEFORE you decide (or buy) on parts, they may be able to save you a whole lot of headache down the line.

  • Like 1

I know your engine is going into a GTS-T, my point was that you may be able to get a 26/30 build out of them based on this / doing the engine alone because it could be just GTR installations they try to avoid.

If you have a problem with your engine that isn't the result of thrashing it, you rule out yourself and your parts as variables in the equation if your tuner/builder was the one who gave you a turnkey package. Not saying RacePace would do it, but self supplied bits give workshops a point of blame for things not being perfect...and rightly so if they've told you they know what works and what you're supplying them with isn't exactly that. With their parts, you're buying a complete package and the peace of mind that goes with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...