Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Imma have ta hold out till someone take one for the team and report back. at worse around F50 brembo braking , and i would consider this with some performance friction 2 piece .

If those piston sizes are right then they are going to be very different from anything that Nissan came with std. Clubbed with bigger rotors... definitely one for people running ABS as without it I would expect it to be lock up city :)

Those first 2 pics are a laugh, have those people worked out how they are going to bleed the brakes?

Some people shouldnt play with certain things.....

They at least had the sense to get he leading edge of the caliper on the correct side of the disc on the car. The pistons are different sizes and getting that wrong would be more problematic than bleeding. The bleeder and bypass lines can be swapped easily.

I agree though, pretty sloppy to have installs like that.

I think thats just a mock up photo. He he simply swap the calipers from left to right or right to left the bleeder screw will move to the top. Simple enough. As for if the master needs to be changed. I haven't heard anthing on that topic as yet. But the american guys just bolted it up and use them without a master change out. No complaints there as yet. Worst case is that there using the 300zx z32 master cylinders. Im the ginny pig as I just ordered a set up and will post my finding when they arrive

what are will you be putting it on?

I think thats just a mock up photo. He he simply swap the calipers from left to right or right to left the bleeder screw will move to the top. Simple enough. As for if the master needs to be changed. I haven't heard anthing on that topic as yet. But the american guys just bolted it up and use them without a master change out. No complaints there as yet. Worst case is that there using the 300zx z32 master cylinders. Im the ginny pig as I just ordered a set up and will post my finding when they arrive

I think thats just a mock up photo. He he simply swap the calipers from left to right or right to left the bleeder screw will move to the top. Simple enough. As for if the master needs to be changed. I haven't heard anthing on that topic as yet. But the american guys just bolted it up and use them without a master change out. No complaints there as yet. Worst case is that there using the 300zx z32 master cylinders. Im the ginny pig as I just ordered a set up and will post my finding when they arrive

Its not as simple as swapping sides. If you do that the large piston is on the leading edge of the disc. The bleeder and bypass on the caliper needs to be swapped.

Visually they look the same as the Vf brembo calipers, which definitely have different sized pistons.

. Can that be conformed?

Can confirm. Same part.

The SS-V here gets what the US get standard - same caliper.

That's talking VF though, not VE. Unsure of VE, they've mad some silly changes between VE/VF even though it's essentially the same car

  • Like 1

Ill be doing it or trying it on a r32 gtr. There saying the caliper brackets will work on the r32 gtr. Ill have to see. If not ill just drop it on my s14 silvia. I have. I have installed skyline calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder nipple was on the bottom side before. Swap them and the nipple went to the top. Thought it might have been as easy as that. But could be wrong. As for the piston thing and the leading edge. Ant know nothing about that. Why would it make a difference. ?? Of you can elaborate a bit im sure the fuzzz in my head would clear up a bit.

Ill be doing it or trying it on a r32 gtr. There saying the caliper brackets will work on the r32 gtr. Ill have to see. If not ill just drop it on my s14 silvia. I have. I have installed skyline calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder nipple was on the bottom side before. Swap them and the nipple went to the top. Thought it might have been as easy as that. But could be wrong. As for the piston thing and the leading edge. Ant know nothing about that. Why would it make a difference. ?? Of you can elaborate a bit im sure the fuzzz in my head would clear up a bit.

Some calipers (a lot) have different sized pistons. They are designed for the small piston to make contact first then the large.

Confusing cos the disc is a circle, imagine putting a dot on the disc and rolling the car forwards. The dot should go past the small piston on the caliper then the larger piston. If the other way around crazy vibrations may occur and probably strange pad wear.

And the reason for the difference with the bleed nipple needing changing or being upside down is some cars have the calipers in front of the axle, some behind.

Sounds heaps confusing now that I have written it. Hope someone can explain it better!

Edited by Ben C34

that makes sense, given the pistons are usually in an offset pattern. The cts/vf have the callipers mounted behind the axle but the gtr's have them facing forward. Although the S chassis are also infront of the axle so there must be a way around this?

Edited by Jaeyon

Are you serious or is this all theory. ??? Wow. I cant see how the piston size can matter. If all the piatons touch that thick metal backing on the brake pads. Can some take a photo of these piston orientation on the calipers for me please. I feel like crap now. Damn. I just bought these. About the front and back of the axle. Thats a whole new idea to me. Just like the piston orientation. Crap:angry::angry::angry:

The 6pot would be overkill, like Fred Flintstone Panic Braking.

MJTru have you bought the 4 piston bracket or the 6 piston? There's photos of the 4 piston setup on an r32 on their facebook page.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...