Rb20 Turbo To Dump Pipe Studs

[rayj]

Hey

Just need to get some clarification. I need to get a set (6) of these for the turbo to dump.

Looking at the manual diagrams it looks like some are meant to be bolts and some are supposed to be studs? I've always thought they were all studs...?

On Just Jap for example, they have "Exhaust Manifold Studs" for $2.95 each and "Turbo Compressor Studs" for $19 each. What's the difference between the two? I'm guessing the Turbo Compressor Studs are the ones I'm after?

Thanks for any help

[breaker1845]

Exhaust Manifold Studs are for exhaust manifolds.... Turbo Compressor Studs might be what you want.

Exhaust manifold studs are quite long in size in comparison to dump pipe and turbo manifold inlet studs.

I don't know why you'd ever use a bolt as its not friendly as it is to get apart for some dump pipes.

Look up wurth dump pipe studs/nuts to get an idea of what they should look like.

[Hunky]

Dump pipe has 2 studs at bottom and the other 4 are bolts all of which are 8mm, exhaust studs are 10 or 12mm. If I where you I would just go to a bolt shop or Bunnings and masters and just buy some job done.

[Missileman]

Turbo to dump bolt x4 Nissan p/n 14434 V 0301 amayama Japan $6 each

Turbo to dump stud x2 Nissan p/n 1441417 F 00 amayama Japan $6 each

Turbo to dump nut x2 Nissan p/n 1441417 F 00 amayama Japan $3.50 each

RB Turbo Gasket Kit x1 Nissan p/n 1440172 L 26 amayama Japan $55 each

RB 20/5 Exhaust Gasket x1 Nissan p/n 1403621 U 00 amayama Japan $70 each

RB 20/5 Exhaust Stud / Yoke Kit x1 Nissan p/n ????? Kudos Motorsports Australia $88 each

Don't even ask what Nissan AU want for that lot, but you can save by going to a specialized bolt shop, do your own research as to what sizes you need, ex stud and yoke kit from kudos MS is a good deal and something that should be replaced if the manifold comes off.

[89CAL]

Compressor studs are on the compressor side of the turbo, as in not the exhaust. Probably for the elbow off the compressor outlet.

The dump pipe uses 2 studs and 4 bolts if its anything like the r33's. You dont NEED to use studs and bolts. Use whatever is easiest to undo.

Measure what size you need and go down to CAT and ask for the size(s) you need in high tensile bolt. This is what I used to run. Put a little bit of good quality anti sieze on them as well and they will be wasy to get out next time and wont sieze in the holes

If you are talking about exhaust manifold to turbo then these are all studs and usually wont come out of the manifold

[Missileman]

.........................!

Edited March 24, 2015 by Missileman

[89CAL]

2 studs on the bottom of the dump, the other 4 are bolts

14414-17F00 - Studs x 2, approx $5 each

14434-V0301 - Bolts x 4, approx $5 each

If you really want genuine. That is how they are supposed to be. And it does (for some strange reason) say the studs are for the compressor housing, but they definetly bolt onto the turbine housing. Japlish maybe not the best

[Missileman]

the stock dump has just enough room for tools, but some aftermarket dumps are more compromised

Edited March 24, 2015 by Missileman

[rayj]

Thanks for all your help guys! Much appreciated.

Any reason why there is a combination of studs and bolts?

And is it absolutely fine if I just go all studs?

Thanks again

[Missileman]

depends on your dump and tools, stick to stock setup unless you have reason not too

[rayj]

  On 24/03/2015 at 12:34 PM, Missileman said:

depends on your dump and tools, stick to stock setup unless you have reason not too

One last question. Reading through these forums can get confusing...

Some people say just get genuine Nissan, others say go to a specialist fastener shop and get high tensile studs, then others say high tensile loses its high tensile properties under extreme heat, so then people recommend inconel...

Also recommended is copper anti-seize on studs and bolts in high heat applications? A good idea or not necessary?

For example, I'm looking at what GCG have available online. They sell sets of high tensile studs and locking nuts for turbo to dump. If they're selling these then obviously high tensile must be fine... The set, however, doesn't include bolts, just 6 studs and nuts...

What are genuine Nissan? High tensile, inconel?

From what I understand:

Exhaust manifold to block - inconel

Turbo to exhaust manifold - inconel

Turbo to dump - high tensile

Thanks heaps for your help

[Missileman]

I dont think it matters, stock are cheap enough to buy new regularly, inconel will last longer...

I had to modify a ring spanner to fit my dump pipe. I don't think that spanner would work too well with a stud and nut. I also have a special spanner for the ex-manifold to turbo flange.

finding a tool that works is difficult.

[GTSBoy]

  On 24/03/2015 at 1:12 PM, rayj said:

Also recommended is copper anti-seize on studs and bolts in high heat applications? A good idea or not necessary?

Not copper anti-sieze. High temp applications need nickel anti-sieze.

[breaker1845]

Make it easy for yourself to put together. No point making it harder than it already is so do what will work best. Anti-seize is definitely a good idea.

I sure as hell wouldn't want to put dumps and turbos together then have a leak because the bolt/stud and nut isn't put on/tightened properly. Take your time to do it right and you won't have to pull it out to do it again.

I just had to replace a dump gasket on my rear turbo on my GTR because the last person didn't have the correct nuts or tightened properly so it was running 3/5 nuts and leaking like a mofo.

If it helps, getting some small sized ring spanners or adjustable may aid you if you can't get a socket in there, but a socket will always be better as you won't potentially be slowly tripping the nut you are trying to do up tight.

[rayj]

Thanks heaps everyone.

All I'm doing now is working out stud/bolt sizes, thread pitch and lengths.

RB20DET

Turbo to dump - 6x M8 x 1.25 (length?)

Turbo to exhaust manifold - 4x M10 x (Pretty sure it's 1.25??) (length?)

Cheers

[DoseVader]

Kudos Motorsports sell the stud and nut togeather, we aleast thats where I got mine from a few weeks ago. Just send them an email and they will send you the link back to the product on there online store and be done with it.

www.kudosmotorsports.com

Edited March 25, 2015 by DoseVader

[89CAL]

They probably run 2 studs and 4 bolts as standard to make fitting the dump easier. Stud acts as a guide.

In this situation a stud is no better or worse so I assume its just for locating. Like I said I ran CAT high tensile bolts in mine with some loctite silver grade anti-sieze, no issues at all and when I pulled it off it was only tight when first loosening the bolt. Finger tight the rest of the way. For some reason remember it being easier with all bolts and no studs but thats going back a bit

[GTSBoy]

Studs

For: The allow you to hang the dump on something while you try to get bolts into the rest of the holes.

Against: They require you to be able to locate the dump in alignment with the turbo at some distance (longer than the studs) back from the mating flange before pushing it onto the flange.

Whichever is the most helpful or most troublesome of those two aspects determines whether they are good for you or not. The main reason to use 2 studs and the rest bolts is that simultaneously aligning more than 2 studs and holes becomes increasingly more difficult with each extra stud. 2 is the minimum to give you enough location to allow you to get bolts into the rest, so it seems like the crossover point between those two considerations.