Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Houston we have a problem ! ! !

After months of anticipation and a shit load of car preparation in the last couple of weeks (full fluid change, discs machined, new pads, seat and harness mounts improved and lots of little issues fixed including mounting a set of Pirelli wets on new rims just for the rain that is forecast) we were doing one of our system check runs yesterday to discover we now have a bearing failure.

Unlike most Skylines with bearing problems ours is in the turbo and it is making a hell of a racket as soon as it tries to come on boost.

In addition to the entry fee we have invested money in accommodation and van hire for the day (for all of our stuff) so we will still attend but will be in a hairdressers car (e.g. 4 cylinder daily). We will still have some semi's and wets to run on the car so if it is wet we still may be able to keep up with traffic in our respective groups.

See you on Monday.

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

  • Like 1

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

I was thinking the same thing!

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

Leave them at normal pressure you would run on street then adjust as you go

Normally in the formula fords we run them a little higher, you think of it as an ice skate, you want a nice edge to cut through standing water ect. If only damp you normally run them on a preassure you are aiming to get to when fully warmed up in the dry.

So if in the dry you want your tire temps at 25psi and normaly to get that you would start at 23psi, you would just start them at 25psi and check when car returns from session and bleed until you hit that 25psi.

Also my daily will be used. My 200kw R33 so hoping to crack a 10 if not to went considering my underpowered R32 gets mid 15's

ECU never turned up. See you all there

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

Not sure what sort of tyres you have, but I'd put at least 40psi cold in there. You can always let air out.

Not sure what sort of tyres you have, but I'd put at least 40psi cold in there. You can always let air out.

Hey Mate,

This sounds like the way to go, especially considering Calsonic14u's comments.

fyi, ive got Gemstone 215's all round, on17's. I know what you're thinking....wtf, wat a noob. But they came with the car and like 95% tread so i thought id rpi them up quick then upgrade. Never anticipated the rain though :no:

Lol DW im running a second hand set of Pirelli on the rear and Re001 on the front on 17s atm on my daily, needless to say i wsnt planing on running her tomorrow lol.

my tires are set atm at 36psi all round, probably wont be bleeding at all haha. dont even think im taking tools :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...