Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I never had the fuel under 1/3rd , they told me not to go below 1/4 until I get a surge tank if I am going to push t a little,

I suggest to get this sorted before you take it again, not nice play Russian roulette with a new motor.......

  • Like 2

It's not the valve springs is it.. Those cam lobes are very aggressive

Same springs and retainers as what's in mine. There shouldn't be an issue unless there was a mega mess up installing.

Having said that, if it's coughing in neutral, it won't be springs as there is no boost.

I suggest to get this sorted before you take it again, not nice play Russian roulette with a new motor.......

t will all be done and I will be very careful until it's done.I never really push it under half full and my pushing is not like you blokes drive :)

Things are looking up, my builder called me and we were talking about the car and he has put in a starter motor for free and going to run a 3.5" Dump and Cat for me "no Charge" so it will be 3.5" all the way. That was a great offer :banana:

Just a matter of finding out where the water is going , a re tune and off we go :)

  • Like 4

Good work Pete, when do they think you'll have it back with a new and improved tune?

Hi James, not sure mate, but I would think he will do it ASAP, might get rid of a bit of back pressure and and flow better ?

Depends on the DBs if I will look at a quieter muffler that still flows but I will wait and see how it sounds and go from there as this exhaust was pretty quiet, well quieter before the build :/

NO, I free revved it and sitting on 5500rpm it started farting.

They have to work it out, all they have to do is drive it , they will fix it, no problem :)

I just wonder if they tweaked it yesterday on the dyno, it never went over 7000rpm without sounding like you hit the limiter but it is set at 8500rpm

doesn't have a neutral Rev limiter does it?

Factory ecus do it, should be possible to program it.

doesn't have a neutral Rev limiter does it?

Factory ecus do it, should be possible to program it.

No mate, I am running a new Haltech Platinum Pro 34GTR and the limiter is set at 8500rpm.

I think it has a limit of 4 or 5000rpm until the motor is running at a normal driving temp around 70 degrees. I never drove the car hard until it was hot.

Got me stuffed, ran to 8000rpm + on the Dyno when being tuned and when I just took it into Sydney on Monday :/

But it will be fixed soon and I will be a happy camper :camping:

Holy crap!!

They must be reading this thread haha

Let's hope so, so many injustices here.

Good Pete, glad they are making things right for you.... As they should. Make sure you post up vids when you get it back.

Great news, Pete!

Will they be doing the flex tune and winding it up to see what numbers this can punch out?

Not having it done yet, I am still trying to work out what I will do with the car after I get it back and see how it is going

Let's hope so, so many injustices here.

Good Pete, glad they are making things right for you.... As they should. Make sure you post up vids when you get it back.

I always said they would fix any of the problems, shit happens and after you have waited for a build to be finished and run into a few probs when you get it back it gets you frustrated, living so far away just adds to the frustration :yes:

It will be interesting to see what difference the 3.5" dump and cat make when it is being tuned ?

I always said they would fix any of the problems, shit happens and after you have waited for a build to be finished and run into a few probs when you get it back it gets you frustrated, living so far away just adds to the frustration :yes:

It will be interesting to see what difference the 3.5" dump and cat make when it is being tuned ?

You'll break 400kw with it I bet.

You'll see how much difference a good dump does.

Yeah i agree i just had a good dump! Feel so much lighter! :D

Great news on the car Pete i think thats the least they coulda done being the high end customer you were! Your build wasn't exactly a budget build so why they left pieces of the puzzle out like dump pipes etc before the tuning process was beyond me?!

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...