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Hey guys though I would post up a build of my car. I built the car in january. The car was stock when I purchased it in November last year. This is my daily driven car.

2001 Nissan skyline R34 GTR V SPEC II

The car was built by hamza at

Just engine management ingleburn

Tuned by Adam neish at JEM

Power

1014AWHP 756kw at 36psi

Rb28

Engine

2.8ltr tomei stroker

Tomei cam gears

Plazmaman fuel rail

2000cc Bosch injectors

Turbosmart 1200 fuel regulator

Turbo 1 manifold

Turbo 1 intercooler piping

Hi octane sump extension

Ati 1000hp balancer

L19 headstuds and mainstuds

Tomei cam cap studs

Tomei full gasket kit

Mines rocket cover baffles

Tomei 280 cams

4x Bosch 044 fuel pumps

Custom under car surge tank

Nismo 100mm front mount intercooler

Precision 76/85

Haltech platinum pro + IQ3 Dash

Super tech valves

Super tech valve springs

Super tech retainers

Twin 40ml turbosmart waste gates

Custom 3 1/2 inch exhaust

Custom dump pipe

Turbosmart race port bov

Driveline

OS Giken OS88 6 speed squential

OS Giken triple plate clutch

Strain gauge

1.5 way Cusco front diff

Wheels

Rays TE37 double patted black 18x9.5

Mickey Thompson ET Streets

post-139321-14282223200335_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282223313812_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282223654522_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282223981865_thumb.jpgpost-139321-1428222419455_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282224339239_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282224744947_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282225289663_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282225583169_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282225802083_thumb.jpgpost-139321-14282226162043_thumb.jpg

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455431-r34-gtr-1000awhp/
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Did you have Pixies doing the build,lol That was quick :yes:

Car looks great, the power , wooh :woot: great results :wub:

I struggle to undersatand Dyno Graphs , but yours looks like it is 150KW @ 140kph , when I bought my car it was approximately the same 150kw @ 140kph (thats where the comparison ends,haha) and mine was really bad to drive as a DD . very laggy ?

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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