Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have left the banter in here as it has been generally acceptable, if not borderline. But consider this as a first and final warning, any further personal slander/affray (especially bringing race into it) and I will start editing heavily and handing out bans.

Also Paul, I have removed your car list from your profile - it makes every post you make ridiculously large when viewing the forums.

Can you move it to my Signature Line below my track times then if you still can somehow?

As it was wrote out specifically that I won't get back again :(

There is definitely a turbocharged CVT getting about locally, and it's still running fine afaik. The box isn't weak, just misunderstood.

I thought you had the RE4 for a minute, but yes, if you can drop in with it I could check out the diagnostics Nissan use to service the CVT. I don't specialise in transmissions, but I have shift kitted many Nissan auto boxes.

But would that be the KTF-1 CVT Diagnostics? Or the old NS-2 CVT Diagnostics???

Or it doesn't matter when reading the CVT?

Can you move it to my Signature Line below my track times then if you still can somehow?

As it was wrote out specifically that I won't get back again :(

Sorry Paul it is gone. And to be honest, and no offence meant, but no-one cares what else you drive :P - also, your sig is already too long - I almost edited out your silly "TBA" lines as well.

  • Like 1

But would that be the KTF-1 CVT Diagnostics? Or the old NS-2 CVT Diagnostics???

Or it doesn't matter when reading the CVT?

KTF-1 and NS-2 are fluids.. also NS-2 is newer. NS-1 was used on the early pushbelt CVTs, NS-2 on the mid to late 00s, and NS-3 is used on the current range.

I would expect if the consult3 can read and communicate with the TCU, then it will work regardless of what type of fluid the CVT runs.

  • Like 1

Not sure what your getting at. If you look at where the lines are routed they come right out the front of the car past the radiator and behind the bumper into some bulbus thing which is probably either a filter or a thermostat or something... I forget and I cant look into it further as I sold my car recently.

Just saying you can't block the fluid flow from the cooler like you can with engine coolant. you would need to bypass the cooler to still allow the fluid to flow back to the pan, otherwise you would create an enormous amount of fluid backpressure in the transmission

  • Like 1

Just saying you can't block the fluid flow from the cooler like you can with engine coolant. you would need to bypass the cooler to still allow the fluid to flow back to the pan, otherwise you would create an enormous amount of fluid backpressure in the transmission

Yep.

If you look at how trans cooler thermostats work they don't block the flow, they just allow it to bypass the cooler. Its exactly the same as an engine oil cooler thermostat. They don't block the flow of engine oil. That would be silly

  • Like 1

Just saying you can't block the fluid flow from the cooler like you can with engine coolant. you would need to bypass the cooler to still allow the fluid to flow back to the pan, otherwise you would create an enormous amount of fluid backpressure in the transmission

As said it just does not work like that if you use the correct parts which I listed. If you do your own research you will understand this its pretty simple stuff really.

Regarding the turbo CVT. Nissan tested this cvt behind their v8 engines of hte era (1990's) and obviously the 3.0 turbo. I would suggest this CVT can take about 350 or so hp but the thing is gearboxes are usually rated in torque output. Once you turbo a 3.5 you are playing with fire with this CVT behind it. The heat generated by the extra torque will kill it sooner or later.

Again I still say anybody that turbo's one of these is nuts. I dont care what anyone else thinks.

Edited by austingtir
  • Like 1

Regarding the turbo CVT. Nissan tested this cvt behind their v8 engines of hte era (1990's) and obviously the 3.0 turbo. I would suggest this CVT can take about 350 or so hp but the thing is gearboxes are usually rated in torque

I would tend to agree.. considering Nissan use a normal pushbelt CVT behind the same 3.5L engine in the Maxima/Murano (sure, slightly detuned). and then they specifically say the toroidal CVT was built to handle high torque, I would say it could handle quite a bit more than the maxima/murano CVT before 'throwing in the towel'.

That said, if you exceed its limits, it will get messy fast! and there is no option to 'rebuild' it to handle more torque like you can with standard auto transmissions.

  • Like 1

The early CVT's had only one drum in the fluid, which meant the higher drum wore quickly if the fluid was old or the fluid level was low. The newer CVT's, both drums are in the fluid, which makes them much more reliable. This is essentially why the early CVT's got a bad name.

I spoke to my Nissan mech buddy last night, there is definitely a fluid timer which changes certain functions as the fluid deteriorates. This can be reset from the Consult3 as I thought.

  • Like 3

I spoke to my Nissan mech buddy last night, there is definitely a fluid timer which changes certain functions as the fluid deteriorates. This can be reset from the Consult3 as I thought.

That's it Scotty. Pretty sure it states that in the workshop manual - which I can't find now :(

  • Like 1

I spoke to my Nissan mech buddy last night, there is definitely a fluid timer which changes certain functions as the fluid deteriorates. This can be reset from the Consult3 as I thought.

Interesting.. you don't happen to know what it changes?

Anyone here in NQ with a Consult3 clone? Or know of any C3 clones that can do this and not cost $1k? I flushed the fluid on my wife's J31 CVT a couple of months ago, and if this is correct, I probably should have the fluid deteoriation counter reset!

  • Like 1

Why on earth would you want to track/push hard on a GT-8 in the first place?

Earlier CVTs are known to have issues when thrashed hard.

If you want to race/track/drag a car, at least get a 5sp auto or 6sp manual.

V35s are named with GT for a reason - grand touring is different without the "R"! Of course you can have a heavy foot and have fun around the corners or keeping up with the traffic, but I would never track a GT-8.

  • Like 2

Why on earth would you want to track/push hard on a GT-8 in the first place?

Earlier CVTs are known to have issues when thrashed hard.

If you want to race/track/drag a car, at least get a 5sp auto or 6sp manual.

V35s are named with GT for a reason - grand touring is different without the "R"! Of course you can have a heavy foot and have fun around the corners or keeping up with the traffic, but I would never track a GT-8.

And that's the way I am keeping it Francis.

Mainly Highway driving & the occassional 2-3 laps to set my best track times.

I seen what happened when you do 6-7 laps at a time!!! Wasn't good for the health of the box at all :(

Is there a service kit available for the Extroid anyway? Ie Gasket, Filter & O-Ring altogether in a kit???

I went to CVT.co.nz & not one part is for the Extroid!!!

Yeah service kit is is sump gasket, o-ring and oil. If there is oil weeping from the side of the box then you'll need copper washers for the banjo bolts.

Check my for sale thread a few pages back for part numbers

  • 3 weeks later...

The early CVT's had only one drum in the fluid, which meant the higher drum wore quickly if the fluid was old or the fluid level was low. The newer CVT's, both drums are in the fluid, which makes them much more reliable. This is essentially why the early CVT's got a bad name.

I spoke to my Nissan mech buddy last night, there is definitely a fluid timer which changes certain functions as the fluid deteriorates. This can be reset from the Consult3 as I thought.

But would the PV35 have a fluid deterioration sensor?

Has anyone got a GT-8 & confirm they had theirs reset after the flush???

As the way I am reading this page, is that its mainly in the J31 (Pushbelt) CVT models that you can have it reset?!

+1 to MV. theyre currently sending me a shift kit for the RE4.

cvt.co.nz do sell gear too, but they werent interested in my business once i said i wasnt buying oil from them.

31526-5P009 (O-Ring)31397-5P000 (Gasket) (someone will need to confirm Y34 is same as V35. it should be same, but Y34 is "6 speed" CVT so small chance is different sump)

Exactly the same thing that is happening with me!

CVT.CO.NZ - don't want to help you out unless you're buying oil from them for the Extroid!!! :( How lame...

You still have the gasket & o-ring for the GT-8 CVT Lee-Ham?

You still have the gasket & o-ring for the GT-8 CVT Lee-Ham?

yes i do. i think ive got them for sale for $45 for both + postage.

  • Like 1

Is there a Filter inside the CVT that can be changed as well?

Like Auto's have or just the O-ring & that's it!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...