Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Long story short, I got this RB26 EFR 83/74 build going on, but due to too many '' bad luck'', I kinda lost interest in my R32 GTR after owning it for 7 year.

With that said thought, I bought a brand new Nismo front LSD 1.5way ( they only have one) and a Nismo GT PRO for the read ( adjustable so i can set it at the lowest value for street use.

However, I'M thinking about selling the car a few month later ( things might chance.. i could deeply felt in love with the new setup and decide i want to keep it, but i believe i passed the point of coming back to liking it).

Given these facts, would you just use the stock diff setup or install only one diff or both ? As we all know, beeing new I have more chance to sell it at good price than if I install it and use it for a few month.. BUT !! if these new diffs could make my car drive better and pull better... then maybe this mod will make me like my car again lol..

Don't fit either, sell them both.

The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred.

Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power.

Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

Don't fit either, sell them both.

The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred.

Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power.

Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

Motor is already out and a RIPS pan is welded there so it's not a problem. Thanks for your input, I believe I will put both on sale, if they dont sell within the next 2 weeks, they will go on the car.

  • 2 weeks later...

You'll be amazed at what that funny little bit of metal that comes in a blue box can do! 3WD GTR's suck.

The 8374 will be a good thing also!

When will it be back in the road?!!

It was suppose to be back 2 month ago.. couldn't find a RB26 Head over here... decided on buying a built motor with ported head.. the seller decided to bail out 3 weeks after we agreed on a price.. so i'm now back to square one.. I found a head, will be picking her up in 1 week and mechanic and machinist will put me in priority to finish the car ASAP.

If ever i find the 83 too powerful or too laggy, my plan is to go with a 76/70 1.05. since i'm already external. I want it to grip and be quick. Don't care about the dynoqueen braggin right.

Edited by cobrAA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...