Fuel Pump/ecu Issue

[nismo_d'luxe]

I Recently buggered my fuel pump running my car out of fuel (what a dickhead!!) after fitting my factory replacement i started and warmed the car no problems but when i went to start it the next day i had nothing at all no dash lights the fuel pump wasnt priming up nothing at all. since then i have pulled off the lines at the secondary fuel filter in the engine bay and disconnected the battery a hundred times and it seems when i do it in the right order i can get it to prime the fuel pump once again however as soon as i switch the car off again i get nothing. i have had it running again since and even took it for a drive and did not skip a beat. i've checked all the fuses and what not multiple times and there is nothing wrong with them. PLEASE HELP I have been at this for 2 weeks now and absolutely cannot figure out what the heck is wrong!!

[89CAL]

Have you checked voltage anywhere? I would start at the ECCS relay or the power pins at the ECU plug and work your way back if there is no power there. Seen as you are getting no dash lights it seems pretty major, yet odd that when it works, it works fine

Is it an R33? I can have a look at some wiring diagrams and give you a starting point if so

[nismo_d'luxe]

Nope that is about the only thing i havent done im in the process of pulling it all back out again and starting back at square 1. Its an ecr34-25gt neo. Yeah seriously mate this thing has got me f**ked that it can run absolutely flawless one minute then i turn it off it chucks in the towel and my dash lights, relays, everything that should be being told to turn on when i turn the key isnt god damn turning on!!

[Kinks]

Check your battery terminals. They often get corroded and although they feel tight they can go intermittent. Take them off the battery posts and then put them back on and tighten up.

If that's not it, sounds like ECCS relay failure or a dodgy connection with one of the ECU pins.

[nismo_d'luxe]

When i disconnected the negative terminal when i replaced the fuel pump i noticed some corrosion so i whipped them both off and gave them a good cleaning just with a rag and scrapped any corrosion off with a screwdriver. About 3 months ago i gave it a full service and put a K&N panel filter in i recently read that sometimes the oil off them clogs up the AFM is that a possibility too or is it more likely to be the ECCS Relay? It does seem like its a dodgy relay however i checked all the relays in the engine bay fuse box and no scorch marks or rattling. Any relays under the dash or other such strange locations?

[Kinks]

Yeah there are relays under the dash but the main ones are in the engine bay.

even if your AFM is clogged with oil when you turn the key to ON you should get all the dash lights, the fuel pump should prime for about 3 seconds and then switch off. if you're getting dash lights but no fuel pump then it's pump related. if you're not even getting dash lights then your ECU isn't switching on, and your problem is between the battery and ECU. forget fuel pumps, AFMs and blinker fluid levels until you sort out the lack of dash lights.

Could be a dodgy ground connection with the chassis as well. gotta start checking things with a multimeter.

[tridentt150v]

Check your earth strap where it's bolted to the frame - scrap it, scratch it, clean it. I'd also try running another earth strap direct to the motor [one jumper lead is fine]. But obviously don't drive with a jumper lead, its just a check to make sure your earth is working and reliable.

[nismo_d'luxe]

its deffs not my pump thats how this all started i replaced it and bam shit started going haywire. yeah my ECU isnt turning on at all im not sure if it has power to it or not though. I have quadruple checked my fuses this time with a mulitmeter like you said Kinks i need to work out if my ecu is getting power which i hope its not haha if it is getting power and not turning on it would mean my ECU is fried yes? TY Trident i will check my earth too should be fine but hey i have checked everything else!!

[tridentt150v]

yeah, not talking about the earth for the pump - although would also pay to check - talking about the battery earth connection. Also check that the long ECU gang plug is tight and actually pushed all the way in. I had mine work loose, was bolted on and everything but stopped working, pressed it back on harder and bingo!!! These sort of issues can have you pulling your hair out I know, GL..

[nismo_d'luxe]

so after fiddling around in my drivers side foot well and deciding to roll my car forward so i could get in there easier my steering lock came on and when i turned the ignition on i noticed all my dash lights fired up!! i quickly hooked up all my fuel lines and it started first turn literally not even a wind over fired literally straight away. i let it sit and warm up while i cleaned up all my tools and double checked everything was back on where it was men't to be. cautiously at first i took it for a drive out the road and it ran flawlessly once again. when i got home i noticed a large fuel leak underneath the car when idling im guessing due to my not properly tightening a return line in the boot so i switched the car off straight away. when i turned the key my dash lights came on first time so i think whatever it was that was wrong is solved (fingers crossed). I will check this leak tomorrow and hopefully its all good to go!! i think whatever drives my windscreen wiper fluid is gone too though because its full of water and no dice.

[Ben C34]

Ah, the old car fixed itself.

[tridentt150v]

Smart car = icar

[nismo_d'luxe]

its a relay it must be! car died again over the weekend lucky i was expecting it so she wasnt too far from home going to change the relay behind my ecu before i bugger around trailering it home. damn cars aye

[nismo_d'luxe]

Found of the three plugs attached to the fuse box the top two were absolutely packed full of corrosion cleaned them out and it runs again. not sure if that was the issue but certainly wouldnt have helped.

[sonicz]

Definitely would have been the corrosion. I wonder how an R34 gets is all corroded up but my older R33 is spotless. Watch for them battery acid spills I guess, only use completely sealed batteries.

I recommend a product called CRC 2-26. Its like WD40, but an anti everything bad when it comes to electrical anything. Seriusly i dont mean to sounds like a smart arse when saying that. Take out all your fuses/relays and spray the crap out the sockets and put them back in. I can guarantee you you wont have corrosion problems again for the life of your car.

[tridentt150v]

Just yellow goop everywhere that is hard to clean off!!!!

Makes your car look like its got a weeping pus hole

[89CAL]

Nah i think 2-26 is clear and similar to spraying WD-40

I have a can in my work car but havent actually used it yet

[nismo_d'luxe]

So after trying for 4 months to find the issue, finding a multitude of what i would call minor electrical faults I.E every time i fixed 1 i still didnt get ignition, I finally bit the bullet and took it into an auto electrician. Got it back a week ago so far all seems to be fine. All it was, was a plug behind the ignition barrel. It had gotten hot and worked itself loose, gotten hotter and worked itself looser, so on and so fourth. $140 bucks for the privilege probably took them 10 minutes but thank god its all fixed and running again. Not to mention any future electrical problems i would have had as a result of any of the minor electrical problems are somewhat eliminated preemptively so alls good Thanks for everyone's input and help.

Definitely would have been the corrosion. I wonder how an R34 gets is all corroded up but my older R33 is spotless. Watch for them battery acid spills I guess, only use completely sealed batteries.

I recommend a product called CRC 2-26. Its like WD40, but an anti everything bad when it comes to electrical anything. Seriusly i dont mean to sounds like a smart arse when saying that. Take out all your fuses/relays and spray the crap out the sockets and put them back in. I can guarantee you you wont have corrosion problems again for the life of your car.

Is it just a good contact cleaner or... cuz i've got inox man and i aint no auto electrician but this shit kicks ass. stinks like f**k and hard to get off your hands but seems to work well.

[89CAL]

Its not like inox really. It is probably more like silicone lube spray. Its good if youve got it. Theres plenty of stuff you can get. For plugs ive used electrical grease and that was good for deutsh plugs etc.

Personally I've never really used anything but contact cleaner on my car. It just isn't exposed to the elements enough to need it. I dont wet any where near the electrics. Ive only ever had one issue with plugs and that was because it was full of something that had limited the contact over time (must have been like that when i bought the car)

[nismo_d'luxe]

yeah man i have only had the top two plugs on the side of my fusebox with corrosion every other plug i checked was absolutely fine. i just use repco contact cleaner bro its all the same shit and i aint paying $35 bucks when for $12 i can get the same thing.