Hot Side Piping Question

[Strick.]

Gday everyone,

Ive been having some dramas with intercooler piping blowing off ( RB25DET series 2, standard turbo [12 PSI only], front mount intercooler and front facing plenum in a R32) so have replaced all the joiners with new silicone joiners and T bar clamps on the whole lot.

On the hot side, there is 10 to 20mm movement, by hand, of the piping. Common sense tells me this is needed as the engine will move under load etc but i dont want it to be a cause for pipes to continue blowing off.

Should the moventment be a problem?

Cheers

[GTSBoy]

No, movement shouldn't be a problem.

A lot of people assume that those T clamps are better. They're actually not. Very good quality conventional hose clamps are the best. Make sure your pipes have sufficient weld bead at the ends to give something to clamp against. Use a cleaner (window cleaner or similar to clean the pipes and hoses before assembly, and you can use it as an assembly lube if they're too sticky once cleaned.

[Piggaz]

How are your engine mounts?

[Trex]

i have to disagree. Good T clamps allow for the clamp to be taken off and put back on with no structural damage to the clamp.. ever. Cheap conventional hose clamps won't work, period. Good quality conventual hose clamps may get away with being taken off and put back on 4-5 times, after this they start to tighten on an angle and eventually strip/bend/snap the ladder section.

And what type of movement?

The standard silicone joiners are softer and allow movement of the pipe because when it's under load the intercooler is stationary to the chassis, the engine and pipework is not. I have not had a problem with aftermarket thicker/tighter ones though.

Is it possible your engine has too much movement?

Do you have lips on all your pipework?

The lip and clamp will cause a barrier where the lip cannot move passed the clamp. The hot side elbow should have a small one already.

[GTSBoy]

I've had the same conventional clamps on my car since the FMIC went on it. That's about 15 years.

[Strick.]

I think the existing hose clamps had been on a off a few times are were warping as others have said, i hadnt changed them since buying the car.

I have had the engine out at DVS Jez workshop and he changed an engine mount while it was there if my memory is correct. But i will stick my head under the car and double check.

Yep thats the other thing i did, put a bead on all the pipes that didnt have one so there is something to grip against.

[scotty nm35]

Every Tbolt clamp I have pressure tested leaks badly, as there is no clamp pressure between the points where the bolt does up. I only use standard Norma style worm clamps, they should only be tightened when the engine bay is hot, too hard and they will fail obviously.

Running up to 40psi with no dramas here.

[boostn0199]

Yep tbolt clamps are big bulky and you need to do them up ridiculously tight, the norma worm gear spring tension clamps are the best have never had a pipe blow off also make sure all your pipes are lipped at the end.

[89CAL]

Are the pipes clean and oil/grease free (silicone joiners as well)?

Wipe them all with wax and grease remover so they can grip well. I havent had any problems with t-bolt clamps and i think one of my pipes doesnt have a bead. Running 23psi

[Strick.]

Thanks for the tips guys, have a plan in place with kit to take with me if i have dramas at the Matsuri at the end of the month