Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning Gents,

I came across this GT-R yesterday and decided to call the owner as i'm in NSW and can't casually see the car

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1999/SSE-AD-3432860

I wasn't able to gather much information regarding the history of the car ie. how/who bought it in, auction grade etc as the owner claims he no longer has any of the import documentation like export/de-reg certificates, auction sheet etc

From the vicroads records, the car was only complied in 4/2014

I understand services like Japanese odometer check exist to get the export documents, is there any other avenues to consider for situations like this?

Also the modifications he claims were all done in Japan prior to import, but was tuned by Racepace - seller's list below

After market parts including:

Ohlins coilover suspension

Nismo 600cc injectors

Nismo Fuel Pump HKS oil cooler

HKS GD Max Twin Plate Clutch

HKS 25/30 Turbos

Tomei Oil restrictor

Tomei Poncam Camshafts

Apexi Power FC with Controller

Short Shift kit N1 oil pump

Nismo style side skirts and Rear bumper pods

Brand new RAYS TE37SL Double Pressed Black 19x10.5

Eclipes Navigation head unit

Dyno tuned by Racepace 324KW at the wheels

I'm pretty interested in the car and getting it inspected as it presents quite well, but a bit wary as the car has very little documentation with it

Thoughts?

post-55803-0-53304400-1433208628_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-43201500-1433208624_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-09645000-1433208627_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-52502900-1433208627_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-22880200-1433208625_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-00001600-1433208628_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-13716300-1433208629_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-55142400-1433208626_thumb.jpgpost-55803-0-99008500-1433208625_thumb.jpg

IMO people dont just lose import documents and auction papers when they'd know how important they'd be come time to sell. In saying that get the De-reg check done and if the inspection comes back all good then thats all that really matters isnt it?

  • Like 1

I would be less concerned about frequently forged or modified documents and more concerned about the "feel" of the car. You need to see the car. You don't buy a $60K car without seeing it IMO. Cars NEVER EVER look as good in reality as they do in photos. Especially through Carsales as they suck every last drop of quality out of the photos when you load them which makes any car look good as blemishes don't show up.

If you've seen a few cars you get a good idea of what a 90,000km car really looks like. If it drives good, looks legit compared to how it's advertised and you're happy with the price, go for it!

  • Like 1

Hit me up for my R34 GTR V-SPEC N1 in 2024. I'll be 75 yrs old then!

I might do that lol. Awesome to see a big fan of these cars that has your lengthy experience :)

I'm probably going to be on the lookout for a 2000 R34 though - since my R32 is a 1990 and my R35 is a 2010 it'll make for nice symmetry lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...