Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismo LMGT Magnesium wheels with ryre (re11). they are not lmgt4 or lmgt3. rarest nismo wheel for gtr and only 7.8kg each. they only come with 18X10 +20 white. I want $5000 for them.

FS 2 QLD number plate: 3.BNR.4( black on gold) 3nur4 (white on black) 1000 each.

I dont like nismo or te37 style thats the only reason i want sale the wheel. but if i cant get the money i want i might just keep it and repaint it.

locate in gold coast

post-60395-0-16629300-1435837627_thumb.jpg

post-60395-0-47738500-1435837635_thumb.jpg

post-60395-0-17970100-1435837674_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Except more than new Nismo wheels? I've seen a couple of these come up for sale on YAJ, but not those sizes...

Like op said, LM-GTMAG was only ever sold in 18x10+20, if your seeing different sizes they're LM-GT4. Has been a few sets go through recently though.

Very nice wheels op, glws

Hi Nosure,

Are you happy to accept $5K including courier to 2777?

Can you please email me pics via [email protected] ?

I'd like your name and phone# land and mobile please?

Your car has been on the track/ripple strips; so are there any cracks - even hairline cracks?

Yes, and relay to me any info about condition or need for repair eg buckling if you will!

I'd like to have close up pics of each wheel around the inside and the barrel as well as the outside edge/face.

Any crazing of the coating? Yes, I can see some rash

If all's well, I'll buy them thank you.

If someone else has got in before me whilst I'm looking over the pics (on email), that's alright too.

Regards, Terry

PS I must say thank yous of appreciation to my 'family' here on SAU!!!

  • Like 2

Like op said, LM-GTMAG was only ever sold in 18x10+20, if your seeing different sizes they're LM-GT4. Has been a few sets go through recently though.

Very nice wheels op, glws

My bad, thought I saw these in 17x9.

Hi all,

there only a few gutter scrapes which are easy to remove, there are no other damage at all. I know Im crazy if i ask $5000 for LMGT4. but there are different. I really dont think 5000 is a lot money for these wheels.

Except more than new Nismo wheels? I've seen a couple of these come up for sale on YAJ, but not those sizes...

Hi

On yahoo auction or other japan site, there are no these wheel for sale at all.

Like op said, LM-GTMAG was only ever sold in 18x10+20, if your seeing different sizes they're LM-GT4. Has been a few sets go through recently though.

Very nice wheels op, glws

thats right

thanks

Very nice wheels, $5000 is a good price for mag wheels, I sold my Mines BBS RE-MG forged magnesium 18 x 10.2j +18 wheels Recently for over $7500, technically this is a bargain.

Good luck with the sale! I'm sure Terry will buy it :)

Regards

Roy

Edited by roy8532

Very nice wheels, $5000 is a good price for mag wheels, I sold my Mines BBS RE-MG forged magnesium 18 x 10.2j +18 wheels Recently for over $7500, technically this is a bargain.

Good luck with the sale! I'm sure Terry will buy it :)

Regards

Roy

thank you.

no idea how to edit the post, just want say I may not include the tyres but depend the price and location, because the shipment fee is a lot more with the tyres and the tyres are not new. also its easy to pack the wheel into rays 18 inch wheel box. so unless local pick up, otherwise its not worth.

Hi Ken,

Yes by all means strip the tyres off them, but can you please ask the tyre place to use rags and watch them? You can take better close up pics of the rims for me as well.

Regards Terry

Hi Ken,

Yes by all means strip the tyres off them, but can you please ask the tyre place to use rags and watch them? You can take better close up pics of the rims for me as well.

Regards Terry

no problem,

Very nice wheels, $5000 is a good price for mag wheels, I sold my Mines BBS RE-MG forged magnesium 18 x 10.2j +18 wheels Recently for over $7500, technically this is a bargain.

Good luck with the sale! I'm sure Terry will buy it :)

Regards

Roy

How is 5k a good price for mag wheels? D1R are mag wheels but you wouldn't pay 5k for them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...