Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've decided housing affordability = directly proportional to Alex's financial position

Well it goes a little against the grain of what your saying though doesn't it.. Cos if houses were more affordable.. Then more people would buy them so I'd make even more money.

Hrmm...

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

exactly right.

a farmer is sub diving a Padock into 6 lots

5 - 6 acres each.

but that said he needs to run power/water to each (that part of the advertisement) plus fencing and such.

it's interesting there 6 blocks 5 currently at 350K 1 at 280

so they obviously trying to work out what price they should be at, from other blocks seen for sale I think 5 are 220ish and the one I want 250-260K

Just offer what you feel it's worth in writing if he knocks it back no harm done

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

If it's 12 month settlement (title) you can't take out a loan as finance pre approvals are only valid for like 3 months so you pay deposit and work out the rest closer to settlement

But down the track you'd ideally borrow no more than 80% to avoid LMI

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

Are you going to be using a major registered builder like henley homes etc or is it a mates build type thing?

There are huge differences in how BICOE funding works depending on who's building it.

The long and the short of it, try to keep as much of your deposit free for the construction loan, not the land loan.

12 months apart they will be 2 separate deals.

So maybe use $30k max to pay deposit and legals for the block and keep as much of the remaining $70k as possible for the build.

Id try for 5% deposit on the land but if it's a developer likely they'll demand 10%

I read that as he needs to buy the land in entirity first, in which case he will need a bigger deposit for the LVR

Ham is correct.

the sub divide is passed with the council and shit but the work not done.

else would be easier.

I expect will take 12 months at least for the block to be ready to build

for ease of work this is the block looking at:

http://www.realestate.com.au/property-residential+land-vic-nagambie-201233937

and the builder something like:

http://diversebuilders.com.au/HomeDesigns/DesignDetails.aspx?dpk=20

(looking at a few builders but all similar)

and if you guys are confused think where I'm at!

That should all be doable as 1 deal so long as you pay the deposit out of your own pocket.

They are a registered builder so that deposit should be sufficient.

Ham is correct.

the sub divide is passed with the council and shit but the work not done.

else would be easier.

I expect will take 12 months at least for the block to be ready to build

for ease of work this is the block looking at:

http://www.realestate.com.au/property-residential+land-vic-nagambie-201233937

and the builder something like:

http://diversebuilders.com.au/HomeDesigns/DesignDetails.aspx?dpk=20

(looking at a few builders but all similar)

and if you guys are confused think where I'm at!

A rumpus, living room & family room. I wouldn't know what to do with all that space!

Makes my shoebox of a townhouse look even smaller in comparison to that haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...