Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most of the kunce on there just want the cheapest option to slap it on its guts brah... Few use bilstein but all the posts are old and the guy I messaged who seemed to sell them based in qld never got back to me... I'll give Trutrack a call

spoke to Trutrack, said if I go with the Bilsteins to go with H&R springs instead of King as he doesn't rate the kings at all and prefers not to sell them..

 

Also suggested a coilover option, Australian made in QLD, can't remember the brand now though... Height/damper adjustable etc, he rates them..

What's the main pros/cons of coilovers vs shocks/springs? I thought if they were height adjustable they were illegal but he's adamant they're roadworthy..

3 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Suck shit to any idiots who got on board based on the news without properly researching the product

23 minutes ago, dezz said:

spoke to Trutrack, said if I go with the Bilsteins to go with H&R springs instead of King as he doesn't rate the kings at all and prefers not to sell them..

 

Also suggested a coilover option, Australian made in QLD, can't remember the brand now though... Height/damper adjustable etc, he rates them..

What's the main pros/cons of coilovers vs shocks/springs? I thought if they were height adjustable they were illegal but he's adamant they're roadworthy..

I think illegal is if their lowest height setting makes the car illegal in ride height

Was the company Shockworks? If so, heard nothing but good and fitting a set to R33 soon

MCA are another Aussie one I think

I think springs + shocks are meant to be comforier than coilovers? But obviously not height adjustable. I think coilovers and rwc are a grey area, I'm fairly certain it used to be as long as the height adjustment is locked, then it's fine

Doing some reading on MCA coilovers now, seem to get plenty of good reviews... Just seems strange that the 'better option' would be $400 cheaper than the Bilstenin/H&R option...

Might give him a call back and have a better chat now that I'm not at work and can actually hear.

Can't bring myself to call centreline for a comparitive quote, and they haven't got back to my online enquiry...

as birds said if they cannot be adjusted to lower then legal your all good.

 

the idea of Coil overs  (v coil over strut which is a coil over anyhow) is the adjustability.

if you get your spring rate and dampener right should be just as good as a shock coil combo.

or you can go Jap Tiens and shake the coins out of your pocket every time you drive it.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...