Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not that accurate...
I got tuned at 230kw (Safe tune due to an issue with the wastegate), then goes to RTR and makes 203kw on its first run 2 weeks later (same boost curve, cooler day)

At the end of the day, I learnt to ignore the numbers. If its making 300kw and doesn't have anything in the midrange, you'd be better off with 260kw of usable power.

  • Like 1
30 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

Dissatisfied cause they couldn't afford the petrol to drive home from racepace

racepace is f**king cheap for the service you get.


i dont think theres any other shop that lets the apprentice suck your dick while you wait.
thanks borci, more cock for you tonight birthday boy

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, Odium said:

Not that accurate...
I got tuned at 230kw (Safe tune due to an issue with the wastegate), then goes to RTR and makes 203kw on its first run 2 weeks later (same boost curve, cooler day)
 

What part of that makes RTR the more accurate one?

wondering why there is like 30 video files on my work phone... iphone "live" photos defaults to on. has to be one of the dumbest f**king phone features ive ever heard. retarded pricks.

  • Like 1

Comparing dynos is ultimately a pointless exercise and the fixation on achieving certain figures is dumb

So too is a ton of power if you're not making it grip or having it anywhere you're actually going to use it

I'd rather use the Birds measure of power - rolling drag races baby

17 minutes ago, Birds said:

Comparing dynos is ultimately a pointless exercise and the fixation on achieving certain figures is dumb

inb4 new 33R has less power than the coveted 23.GTR

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

inb4 new 33R has less power than the coveted 23.GTR

lmfao



set of -5s with GTX cores have popped up... with RP equal length front pipe, basically a full kit


i know i want a single but twin GTX through a RP front pipe is hnnngggggggggggg

No it's not. You've worked on the twins properly now, and now you have a 25 stag. Sif it's not worth going single. And none of this "cops will ream me". You from Thomo. In a 4-door 32. Probably with your cousins in the car. Single turbo is the least of your worries. Just tell them you put 26 can covers on your 25. Done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...