Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not that accurate...
I got tuned at 230kw (Safe tune due to an issue with the wastegate), then goes to RTR and makes 203kw on its first run 2 weeks later (same boost curve, cooler day)

At the end of the day, I learnt to ignore the numbers. If its making 300kw and doesn't have anything in the midrange, you'd be better off with 260kw of usable power.

  • Like 1
30 minutes ago, joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo said:

Dissatisfied cause they couldn't afford the petrol to drive home from racepace

racepace is f**king cheap for the service you get.


i dont think theres any other shop that lets the apprentice suck your dick while you wait.
thanks borci, more cock for you tonight birthday boy

  • Like 1
32 minutes ago, Odium said:

Not that accurate...
I got tuned at 230kw (Safe tune due to an issue with the wastegate), then goes to RTR and makes 203kw on its first run 2 weeks later (same boost curve, cooler day)
 

What part of that makes RTR the more accurate one?

wondering why there is like 30 video files on my work phone... iphone "live" photos defaults to on. has to be one of the dumbest f**king phone features ive ever heard. retarded pricks.

  • Like 1

Comparing dynos is ultimately a pointless exercise and the fixation on achieving certain figures is dumb

So too is a ton of power if you're not making it grip or having it anywhere you're actually going to use it

I'd rather use the Birds measure of power - rolling drag races baby

17 minutes ago, Birds said:

Comparing dynos is ultimately a pointless exercise and the fixation on achieving certain figures is dumb

inb4 new 33R has less power than the coveted 23.GTR

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

inb4 new 33R has less power than the coveted 23.GTR

lmfao



set of -5s with GTX cores have popped up... with RP equal length front pipe, basically a full kit


i know i want a single but twin GTX through a RP front pipe is hnnngggggggggggg

No it's not. You've worked on the twins properly now, and now you have a 25 stag. Sif it's not worth going single. And none of this "cops will ream me". You from Thomo. In a 4-door 32. Probably with your cousins in the car. Single turbo is the least of your worries. Just tell them you put 26 can covers on your 25. Done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...